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Looking for front seats in decent condition. Our Mk IV has the beige leather interior.

I'm glad to have met you at a SoCal GTG long ago. Good luck in your next location!

Based on your post, getting the car to a guru is the cheapest option, even with the tow. But I would borrow a vehicle to tow it there myself. I've done that enough times...;)

I got the dual gauge pod and installed both from New South. Stock-looking lighting helps it appear like OEM.

Apparently Florida has a new 'Florida man' to keep the rest of us entertained. (y) But seriously, what is it about a state 3000 miles away from you that has you posting your political trash in this forum? Do they owe you money? That's what I call pollution!

I don't see how a bad TC would give you hard shifts. That sounds more like the VB or something internal in the trans.

Get a MityVac and pull vacuum on the turbo actuator and see if it holds. They can get rusty and start to leak. The rust can travel into the N75.

Maybe you're in a bit of a hurry but in your case I would disassemble the head, tank it and skim it. Check the guides because they tend to wear early. Then lap all the valves equally. After that you're good for a half-million more miles.

2002_auto_tdi, read up on the procedure at kansascitytdi.com. The electrical connections are fragile and easily damaged during disconnection. KCtdi even has a special tool to keep from breaking them. Good luck!

If the N75 is the original one it is over 17 years old and may be tired. They are cheap enough to just change to see if anything gets better.

No, it wouldn't. See what your MAF is doing requested vs actual with your VCDS. Or just unplug it and see if the power improves.

If you've never changed the trans fluid, change it and the filter then after several hundred miles change it again. A lot of fluid stays in the torque converter, etc. Speaking of the TC, if you got the TCC code before, keep an eye on your RPM's while at a steady cruise speed. If you see them...

If your goal is to increase noise from the engine, the catectomy won't do that. It has almost no effect on power or sound output. I'd skip it and do the mufflerectomy instead.

What method was used to reset the timing belt after the head gasket change? What makes you think you have a 'bad' injector?

Guys that have exceptionally clean engines have been known to catch the coolant that drains down the side of the block and reuse it. Me, not so much...

Highway driving will wear them less as long as the torque converter lockup is happening as it should. If it starts shifting in and out you need to find out why.

Our 2002 wagon has had intermittent limp mode for a while with the charge negative deviation code. I ran the operational N75 test and got zero vacuum after the N75. The vacuum pump pulls down to 25" Hg so that's not it. We'll see if a new N75 does the trick when it shows up next week, courtesy...

wildn, if you decide to tackle the TB on your own I have the needed special tools and VCDS to adjust timing when you're done. You need to be to good with torquing, etc. I've only had to do my TB once so far so I'm hardly an expert. You may be better off taking it to AG Autowerks...

These vendors can also supply the special tools needed to do the job right!

My condolences, Brian and Lisa.