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Thanks Charlie, but I have no Vag-Com. I guess a good pull may cause it again and then I can disconnect the MAF to be sure. Very happy with the tune by-the-way

So my other son who is a first year mechanic, checked the upper IC hose to see if it popped off and it had not. I got him to unplug the MAF and test drive it and it worked fine, so I got him to plug the MAF back in and it still seemed fine. Fuel, air and oil filters where changed a few months...

Maybe someone can save me some time. 2003 ALH suddenly won't rev past 2000 and has very low power. Cycling the power does not clear it and the turbo can still be heard. I have to go look at it tomorrow- my son is distressed. The car is chipped and has no egr. Raplaced the coolant sensor some...

Ended up having the bracket welded without removing it, put a new idler even though it seemed fine. Thanks for the help.

I'll check that illustration but I am looking for the main bracket that the tensioner, idler, alternator, steering pump etc bolt to. I am going to pull it and see if I can get it welded as it is over $350 on iD Parts. It might be electrical because of the alternator

Went to replace a serpentine belt to find that the bracket on the idler pully had broken. I looked on ETKA and could not find the bracket part number or illustration. Anyone had this before and happen to know the part number? An illustration would be helpful. This is my son's grandmothers car...

Chemical clean Doesn't sound to me like you got the oven cleaner into the vane assy. I cant imagine getting the hose into the vane assy through any of the piping- its tricky enough when you go in at the flange on the turbo. I used clear tubing that had been rolled up so it had a curve in it and...

Cluster Good. Make sure to let us know. Mine has been fine since the regulator was replaced about a week ago. Thank the VAG gods for voltage protection, burning wires really stink-literally.

Regulator The regulator is fastened to the exterior of the alternator and not that difficult to change. A place that rebuilds alternators could probably sell you one or change it. Check the voltage output and if it is high you may have the culprit. Others have had it attributed to ground wires...

actuator Yup. The diaphragm is torn, mine did the same thing. You can get a new one from ID parts for 90 bucks I beleive. Easy to change. Adjust it to start moving at 3Hg and hitting the stop at 18Hg. May not completely fix the limp mode. The chemical clean did it for me.

shudder Mine had a similar "shudder' with a distinct "fluttering" sound. Turbo vane was sticky or stuck and a chemical clean handled it completely and brought back lots of power. I had suffered from limp mode and after changing everything else, the Easy Off clean did the trick. The actuator...

Gremlins gone Well here's and update and conclusion. I was reading that a high voltage will cause the cluster to re-set, so I grabbed a multimeter at work and went out to test the car. Voltage shut off was 12.5, and at idle was reading 18 volts! Yowsers! So I called the shop that replaced the...

Update-Some Gremlins killed Tightened a loose bolt on the ground wire at the terminal (not the one that squeezes the terminal) and the severity is reduced- no ABS light or yelling at me, only at idle sometimes the dash lights go dim or off but the headlights stay bright. I am going to try...

This morning I touched the brake on my 03 Jetta and the ABS light and E-Brake light came on and the car screamed at me with a noise like I was running out of fuel. The dash lights dimmed, went blank, kicked back on, went off, gauges stopped. Seemed to start every time I hit the brakes. Today...

Mine does the same thing. I just tonight took it back to the alternator shop that replaced it and he changed the regulator without removing the alternator and it helped a bit. It was going from 13.5-14 but was staying above 14 afterward with fluctuations in the decimal points. It is...

Another success with oven cleaner My car has been going in to limp mode for a long time. The actuator had been leaking since I got the car and the vane was sticking in the "open' position. It went away for a while with a new actuator but finally started to make a fluttering noise on...

New "wheel", pistons and rods and it runs like a charm. Still not sure exactly what the cause was but the engine was completely dismantled and the pump and head tested and no other problems were found. Can't imagine what else would have caused bent rods which was preceded by a "bang"- the turbo...

Nobody added oil, looks like it was fuel in the oil. Nobody seems to have seen this before but the only thing that seems to explain it is the breakage of the sensor plate which somehow led to over-fueling with the resultant bent rods and subsequent damaged pistons. Parts are on order and it...

Update: some sort of a sensor plate on the crank went, that explains the bang my son heard, somehow this caused excessive fueling and subsequent bent connecting rods and damaged pistons. Funny thing is the thing woould still run half decent when it was warm. So now I am in the market for rods...

It sounds like it is going into "Limp" mode. Tons of information on it on the site- do a search and you will find out what to check, could be a number of things.