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After doing some testing, I've determined that the clutch coil in my 2011 Golf TDI is dead. The following tests IMO, have confirmed it. Please let me know if I'm missing something. - There's 12 volts going to the AC compressor plug when the switch is turned on in the car. - Infinite resistance...

Hot starting problem solved I never replied my solution to the problem, but here it is. Replaced the starter and voila, problem solved. Originally intended to help start the car in cold weather. Nailed 2 birds with one stone on this one.

While you have the inlet hose off the turbo, gently pull in a back and forth motion on the center shaft of the turbine. I needed a pair of curved needle nose pliers to check mine and was shocked to find nearly half an inch of play in mine. (constant limp mode, excessive oil consumption, monotone...

I have a 2006 golf with 137,000 miles. My girlfriend was driving it this morning with the AC on when out of now where, A screeching noise and burning smell happened. I checked it out and saw that when the switch is turned on, the AC clutch engages but the pulley only turns over a half turn. The...

I replaced the coolant sensor in my GF's 2006 golf 5sp Auto. That bugger refused to come out after twisting and prying. Eventually the plastic plug was all broken and cracked. with no option left, I removed the upper coolant hose connected to the flange where the sensor was, stuck a long drift...

Fixed charging problem So the blue wire was the culprit of the problem. I was torn near the 4 plug connection near the battery. Somewhere along the troubleshooting the alternator failed altogether making the process even tougher. So we purchased a solid pulley alternator. Not only did this...

I forgot to mention in the above post that I did replace the alternator with no luck. I should have had it tested before returning it to rule a possible faulty unit but never got around to it.

Can anybody help me out on this?? I was experiencing a no charge problem. At first the car at idle would not charge unless the throttle was held at about 2500 RPM. It would then hold a charge steady at 14.5 to 14.7 until it is shut off. This was going on for about 1 month. Then a few days...

I guess its to be fair to others that have gasoline cars. I think its bulls**t . they should at least check to see a catalyst is actually there and the EGR is hooked up.

I replaced my starter because it was the only thing left that prevented my car from starting cold weather. Not only does the car crank over in bitter cold now, but it surprisingly fixed the hot starting problem that has plagued the car since the day I bought it. It all has to do with cranking...

My GF bought a 2006 Golf (PD engine) A few months later, it died near our home. After looking into it, I noticed the fuel pump was not working. After removing it, I noticed it was covered in a sooty, black film. The impeller of the pump was covered with this crap, causing it to jam up. The tank...

If you look at my thread, don't assume your N75 is fried until you rule EVERYTHING else out. Take the line out from the booster hose tee, plug it and disconnect the line from VAC going into N75 plug it also. Now connect from the VAC nipple directly to that tee on the booster line. If your...

Anybody know why my engine has more difficulty starting when it is hot? When its cold it fires right up. 1999 jetta (ALH)

Re: P1550 Ok, I have an update to the problem I've been having regarding the limp mode problem. Here is what I've done to diagnose the issue. -check the turbo actuator with a vacuum gauge. it moves freely and fully opens at 7-8 H3 on the gauge. -checked both N75 and N18 solenoids (in spec...

Ok. This is getting complicated I hope this is within my mechanical skills. Thanks so much for the help and I look forward to hearing what your N75 reads for voltage. Tomorrow is an early one so I'm off to bed. Thanks again.

I just checked it and I'm getting 5.21 volts to it. I pulled another sensor harness off to confirm voltage and got 12.8 volts. Is it normal for that N75 to only get 6 or less volts?

If i leave the key in the on position, should there be a steady 12 volts flowing to it or do i have to countdown and hurry to check it?

As per the bentley's manual, I tested the resistance value of the N75 and got a reading of 15.8 ohms. The proper operating range is 14 to 20 ohms. So i can rule out the N75 as being the culprit.

I noticed the N 75 and the N18 are the exact same part# except there's an A at the end on the N75. If I swap them, will it cause a different fault code?

That line has been replaced very recently.