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One of the suggestions, if using a Mityvac, is to wrap the bleed screws with a little teflon tape. I have never had a problem with any of them I have done this too. It is a PITA however, but when installing a new caliper it's easy. They salt the roads here like nobodies business.

I use a huge pair of channel lock pliers. Not to squeeze anything, but because I can open them up and "catch" the ears on the lock ring. Then turn it. It's harder to describe than to do. Every time I mess with one I think it would be easy to make something better.

IIRC, if you watch VCDS when this happens, the EGR is opening. If you don't have VCDS, you could unplug the EGR and ignore the light, but test the cruise, it should work properly. A dynamic EGR tune will take care of it. And then a later EGR delete will eliminate it forever.

You can get headliner material (Generic) at Joann fabric and at Hobby Lobby. Get the real deal 3M headliner glue.

That open port is the EGR cooler. Which since you have a tune, you could remove, if you were inclined. The cracked pipes the PO refers to are on the top and bottom of the cooler, one goes to the intake, the other to the turbo. Check on the intake, right behind the EGR for the plate, and the...

Not sure what the PO did, but the EGR is still there. Not functioning from the looks of it. When I did my delete, part of it was getting rid of the EGR cooler in your second pic. I'm guessing he blocked the turbo and intake, and looped or plugged the coolant hoses. I can't zoom in enough to...

I think you want 3mm & 5mm. Good time to upgrade to silicone. I had to replace the tiny wire from the actuator to the firewall, it got some moisture into it and pretty much rotted out.

You can check it in place, but yeah continuity/ohm test. Some try to tighten the connectors if they are loose.

IIRC it reads 0.0 with a bad cam sensor. But, it would throw a code. Since you see a TV, the cam sensor should be good.

I would look at the battery, & starter. You can have both tested at your LAPS. Then replace the temp sender. And have a look at the injector harness. It's difficult to test, but not too horrible to replace. Although you could clear the code and see if it returns. Ignore the boost codes for...

You don't mention it, but nice new battery and connections? If you haven't messed with the starter, it could be getting tired.

I have done three little road trips and my '04 BEW is returning some of my best mileage ever. I did a 400ish mile trip at the end of January: 45mpg Then I did 2 - 450 mile trips last week and did 47 on the first and then 48.5 on the last. Prior best was ~42.

That's strange, I had no idea there were two versions. It sucks, but I would try and find the correct one. Rather than modifying the locks. How are you with a Dremel? I would also modify that door piece before the locks.

I wouldn't modify anything with the locks, if you can help it. Technically, you should be able to run the door without the lock, you just won't be able to lock it. And that little plastic pull piece that is held in by the lock cylinder, might be a problem. If you can, put it back together...

I could be wrong, but I would guess the 2 keys you have are "close". So the back half of the key is correct, and those pins move correctly, but the front half pins are incorrect so it only slides out part way. You could ask a locksmith, but I would guess there is no "master key".

I think only the correct key will get the cylinder pins set correctly for you to pull the cylinder.

Not a link, I get them at the JY, actually my son picked these up. Get the screw too, it's a self tapper and works great. (I think any 2 wire door switch will work).

Last summer, for some reason I tried the key in my wife's Passat (same stuff as a Jetta or very similar). It wouldn't turn. At first I thought the key was different, but that made no sense, but the trunk manual lock was "stuck" too. So, I got one from the junkyard, and got super lucky, that...

Don't forget you need your SKC, and you need either vagtacho or the free code finder mentioned in the thread to get it. Then you will use the SKC with VCDS to pair your keys to the speedo/immo. Just as an FYI, the last keys I had cut locally were $40 (4ish years ago). That was just to cut the...

Carefully slot it with a Dremel. Then try a big screwdriver. A manual impact wrench might be helpfull too.