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Not having driven a car daily for 10 weeks after being a daily driver for the last 40+ years, I've been running around crazy conducting errands, and a bit paranoid about the car possibly developing a rogue DTC that might prevent it starting again. I've received my vacume lines and the large...

BrettSanDiego, thanks for the correlation to my spare ECU possibly being needed to get my turbo back and/or eliminate my lack of power, and P2B for your continuing specificity about the differing conditions under which these group of codes could be set and that a common harness could be the...

You know, being old school and all, I always hear "Just Google it" but since Google maps often enough sends me onto dead end streets, I tend to want to use informed opinions. And that would do it once I find the angle causing the ASV arm to make the valve stay fully open.... The thought in the...

If a partially closedASV is the one or the only issue (presuming the flap is the ASV), I think the ASV must be just slightly closed from the full open position because I can externally grab the lever and easily choke the air off to kill the car, but the electric wiring looks perfect (so strange...

I almost completed drafting the summary of the numerous steps I've taken for 10 weeks to try to diagnose my non-starting Jetta, when VCDS verified the complete disappearance of all injection pump related DTC's that were perplexing me for 6 weeks. They disappeared by installing a remanufactured...

CanadianALH, (1) I verified the ASV was freely moving and had vacume. To confirm the ASV is open while cranking, until starting, I have the 90 degree rubber turbo airhose pulled off and a wrench shoved in the ASV so it cannot close even when I can's see it as I crank from the drivers seat. (2)...

Totally agreed. And timed exactly as it has been 3 times in 100,000 miles of trouble-free driving, I was extremely happy to find psi at 440-490 better than my original block! Now if I can figure out what could have possibly happened to cause this non-start just by changing the block...and I...

Based on the comments just above by turbocharged798, Brett San Diego, and Genesis , I seriously doubt I de-indexed my original IP shaft. As Genesis and Brett San Diego both suggested, I'd likely know if it busted free from the shaft taper that's like the cam, which I have to give a good whack...

IP "Pin" pulled out 1" of the 2-1/4" inserted fully into pump interior, to show DIRECTIONALITY: IP "Pin" insterted fully into pump, directly in center of square mark, due to being taken from directly perpendicularly above it: IP pin hole centered in side window of pump:

Genesis, Thank you again for your very kind follow-up as you express your frustration with how I write. I'm not intentionally trying to confound your or anyone else's good advice. I just "think" in complete sentences, and to share my train of thought in diagnosing, it comes out like this :(...

Zach99b5: Why not swap my spare IP into the car (again)? I have 2 IP's. I've presumed they were both "known good" but for different reasons and with different levels of reliability: (1) IP "known" good because it's been the original IP in the car running for 100,000+ miles timed by me exactly...

IP pinhole from 90 degrees perpendicular side angle: 1 of 3

IP pin in pinhole from 90 degrees perpendicular directly over square pump-top mark--- FULLY INSERTED 2-1/4" INTO PINHOLE/PUMP: 2 of 3

IP pin in pinhole from 90 degrees perpendicular directly over square pump-top mark--- PULLED OUT 1" from bottom of hole TO SHOW PIN DIRECTIONALITY: 3 of 3

Genesis, If my current IP whose 22mm big nut was loosened, and that possibly slipped in any way requiring re-indexing, would it be likely for that slip and need for re-indexing to APPEAR AS (manifest itself as) the IP pin hole shifting slightly more up/back/counter-clockwise than where textbooks...

Unlike the consistent VCDS scans from whether either IP was installed and whether either ECU was installed (excepting the replscement ECU having the additional Immobilizer DTC on Instruments module), this new VCDS autoscan after reinstalling my new alternator but not yet having cranked on the...

BrettLou, I have confirmed the grounds under the battery, at the bell housing connection between the tranny & engine by the starter, the footwell near the fusebox under-dash, and the grounds by the ECM & glow plug replay under the hood/windshield. They were all appearing as if completely...

I know very few people on this forum that's basically TEXT don't like to read TEXT no matter how many relevant details I include after reading it for YEARS and very much appreciating the massive expertise represented by it, and I exude the alleged "wall of text" causing anyone who dares to...

BrettLou, I agree with your suggestion, and am just awaiting before soliciting and thinking which wires to work over of the hundreds of possibilities, until replacing my alternator tomorrow that I discovered was completely fried. Would VW have programmed the ECU to prevent my Jetta starting...

Written explanation of these latest new IP pinhole pictures: I know the previous pics included several of the "process" I described that was supposed to be viewed alongside the text I wrote about these, that of course few members read. In direct messaging I've been clued in that the pics have...

Current IP pinhole= dead center of slot & dead center of half-broken off front of the outer part of the correct hole...but still visible in this pic :)

measurement of well over 2" shown on ruler illustrating how far the screwdriver IP "pin" tip extends far into the interior of the IP into the ONLY place that's that deep...not the "sucker" hole...the correct real hole!

Measurement of the full depth of screwdriver IP "pin" shaft at well over 2" deep...

Screwdriver IP "pin" held VERY ROUGHLY OVER (pinhole is slightly forward of where I'm generally holding this) where it's properly inserted. To show how deeply it inserts deep, deep into the side of the pump, far, far beyond the shallower "sucker hole" would allow if this were inserted there wrongly.

Same screwdriver inserted fully to same way-into-the-pump-body depth...STILL showing just a little "high"/rear on the top face square timing mark area, but not so far as to actually be in the sucker hole. A little parallax viewing error as pic taken from not exact perpendicular angle to the mark.