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Looking forward to your info, thanks.

Just confirmed this, Mike treated me exceptionally well when I had dealings with him over a pump failure. Much respect and very sad to see that life's issues became overwhelming for him. Rest in Peace, Mike.

I don't have a BRM, but my 2005 BEW is at 188,000 miles and has a worm cam and is also coming due for a full timing belt replacement. ID parts is currently offering $50 off on their replacement camshaft and lifter kit and I'm wondering if there is any reason not to use their components?

I'll just say that I've had very good success with the 4-5 Costco batteries I've installed, haven't returned one yet and the first (27deep-cycle) was installed into the boat in 2007....still working as new.

If you look at the $300+ pump (motor) it will look just as cheap as the $20 pump. Our 2005 Golf's original pump lasted somewhere around 3-5 years. It ran just fine without the lift pump for several years till I changed it out, thinking I 'should' do that.

Looks like he still sells the pump motor on fleabay: search seller; defender-tech

LugNut, I don't see ANY wear on that lobe, but I do see some discoloration....is that the wear you speak of?

I'm close to your mileage and your cam looks better than mine does. I'm not sure that I see any sharp edges to the side of the lobes? I've used the T6 and the Mobil1 TDT oil for the last 160k miles and this seems to have slowed the wear dramatically.

Oilhammer, can you advise what fluid to use for a partial fluid change on the 2005 Golf BEW with a Jatco 09A? I'm at 181k miles and have zero issues so far. Thanks!

But you are not certain it was freezing coolant that did in the block, are you? I'd want to have a very good look at the head before re-using, but then it should be far less prone to freeze damage than the block would. It is a 'known', more or less.

Tic toc... goes the time bomb. ......just kidding! Keep us posted I'll need one at some point and hate to spend the extra moola if it isn't necessary.

That is of course quite abnormal. I'm thinking relay? Voltage at the pump connectors? If you have the bew pd engine the camshaft needs to be checked for wear....you don't want the lifters failing.

If you have a tan canister, keep it!

I'd get that boot fixed PRONTO! RE-pack the inner with the right grease if necessary/possible or at least back up the grease that may have been lost through the tear. My OEM inner(05 model year) failed quite quickly after the boot opened, much to my chagrin.

If any one of the hand-wringing types on here want to sell me their almost new wagon, ( no sunroof, manual preferred) at the current market's low low value, then PM me. After all you'll be wringing the difference in value out of the manufacturer, so who cares how low we set the price? I'm pretty...

Well when the value of these vehicles drops to near-zero tomorrow, I'll pull out my wallet to buy one from the hand-wringing fear-cats! VW is in a spot of glue, lets sit back and see how it all unfolds. I doubt that even the EPA expects 482,000 cars to be scrapped.

My ceramic gp were not heavily crusted....but that was at 110k miles. HOWEVER, one of the tips was partly missing and had clearly been broken for a while. Lord knows how it escaped without any apparent damage. I installed 4 plugs from Id parts, all steel....with neverseize. No issues since, pull...

Same issue with my '05 Golf, replaced left drive shaft with a Cardone one.....it was $115 and readily available. Found the inner boot had disintegrated at some point in the last 8,000 miles, dumped the grease and chewed itself. Where are you finding OEM replacement inner joints and outer...

That's pretty much what I would do, but I'd change to a new filter. There may be damage done elsewhere, gas is not friendly to diesel engines and you had a very low tank. I'd take a sample or have an independent person take a sample and get in touch with the gas station to see if others...

Thanks for all the experienced feedback, it is very much appreciated

I have a learned resistance to Chinese-sourced parts....even though I know not all are crap, many really are at the point where they look like real parts, feel kinda like real parts but are NOT real parts. Tough to find anything that isn't C.R.A.P. these days

I agree Uhoh, best to get the better quality parts. Raxles just quoted me $310USD per side, shipped to US address, for complete assemblies I've yet to experience re-building CV joints, so that would be new for me....but I can learn. I also am having trouble finding the joint kits for the...

I'm wondering where I can purchase new drive shafts of decent quality (failed inner, HUGE vibrations under ANY power) as none of the preferred vendors seem to carry shafts? I've tried Dieselgeek, Idparts, and a few others....to no avail. The local jobber says they carry the Cardone part number...

Step 1, at this point, is to verify the condition of the timing belt.

Thanks for suggestions! Update: Early this AM, armed with tools, ready for diagnostics 101, the damn thing fired up on the first or second compression stroke, ran smoothly, no visible exhaust. WHAT THE HECK? I kinda hate stuff like this....