It's really straightforward. You'll have the seat out in 5 min.
To get to the top bolt you'll need 3' of extensions and a swivel (tape it so it has some rigidity). You'll go over the trans crossmember and up along the tunnel to the upper fastener.
That socket drive feature is often and easily damaged, have a replacement on hand.
Also be careful that...
Look up the William Turbo extraction sockets. They're a little expensive but by far the best extraction sockets on the market. I use them industrially nearly every day. They're much thinner wall than the Irwin or Craftsman options.
Hammer it over the head and give it the beans. It's come right out.
Frank if those bolts are torque to yield they can't be reused for reasons that may not be so apparent those not in the fastener world. Trust me and the VW fastener engineers. Just buy the new bolts unless it's an emergency repair.
I'm working on an in depth post explaining torque to yield and...
PSI is a totally useless once you understand what you're discussing. Pressure is resistance to flow. Intake and exhaust are critical to any performance build. You need to be talking in mass airflow to select a turbocharger, not PSI.
Before you go installing the new cover verify when the timing belt was done last. I'd hate to have your new car throw a belt for simple lack of maintence. As you're probably aware that results in catastrophic damage to the engine.
This is the link you want
At 1:400 PS say it drops the pour point to -70F
"16-OUNCE (PART NO. 1016)
At temperatures above 0°F., add entire contents (16 ounces) to 40 gallons of diesel fuel. When temperatures drop below 0°F. or...
It's unfortunate they pulled all of the moly out. T6 was my go to for almost everything. The moly content in the old CJ never had issues with wet clutches. Sportbike guys used it with great success for years and years.
Looks like I need to buy up the old stock locally. The moly oil additives...
Does the 1.4 have an anti shudder valve? Make sure that's not stuck closed with soot.
Does it sound normal cranking over? Does it sputter and try to start? Any smoke be it white or black out the exhaust? Does it smell like fuel after cranking?
If you must run a very very thin bead 1/16th of an inch at most and let it air dry until it's very lightly tacky (not goopy as dispensed).
Do you best to make sure the intake flanges are flat and free from debris, do the same for the head. I realise the head side is much more difficult to get...