https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/golf-mk4/body/general_body_repairs_interior/seat_frames/front_seats/removing_and_installing_front_seat/removing/
It's really straightforward. You'll have the seat out in 5 min.
All mine are gone but I still have the diesel W115. I'm still interested in a Mk2 TDI swap but I have more than enough incomplete projects at this point.
To get to the top bolt you'll need 3' of extensions and a swivel (tape it so it has some rigidity). You'll go over the trans crossmember and up along the tunnel to the upper fastener.
That socket drive feature is often and easily damaged, have a replacement on hand.
Also be careful that...
If you've had a massive debris generating even like that the motor NEEDS to be torn down and every single oil passage cleaned.
You can't slap new parts at it and expect it to live a long life.
Look up the William Turbo extraction sockets. They're a little expensive but by far the best extraction sockets on the market. I use them industrially nearly every day. They're much thinner wall than the Irwin or Craftsman options.
Hammer it over the head and give it the beans. It's come right out.
Frank if those bolts are torque to yield they can't be reused for reasons that may not be so apparent those not in the fastener world. Trust me and the VW fastener engineers. Just buy the new bolts unless it's an emergency repair.
I'm working on an in depth post explaining torque to yield and...
PSI is a totally useless once you understand what you're discussing. Pressure is resistance to flow. Intake and exhaust are critical to any performance build. You need to be talking in mass airflow to select a turbocharger, not PSI.
I've dealt with intercooler blockage due to snow build up. I can not recommend doing it on purpose. I was seeing intake air temps well over 120F with ambient being around 25-32F.
Before you go installing the new cover verify when the timing belt was done last. I'd hate to have your new car throw a belt for simple lack of maintence. As you're probably aware that results in catastrophic damage to the engine.
If it's clean $2700 is a very good price. If it's crusty I'd have a hard time paying over 1k. Michigan crusty is not the same as California crusty either.
Either Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck (often called TDT on the forum) or Rotella T6 (They unfortunately just changed the formulation) 5w40 but they're still great oils and available everywhere.
This is the link you want
http://powerservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/dfs-bulletin.pdf
At 1:400 PS say it drops the pour point to -70F
"16-OUNCE (PART NO. 1016)
At temperatures above 0°F., add entire contents (16 ounces) to 40 gallons of diesel fuel. When temperatures drop below 0°F. or...
Disconnect the battery and try and run continuity from the fuse holder to the positive battery terminal.
I've seen them where the contacts are corroded but the fuse holder remains unmelted.
It's unfortunate they pulled all of the moly out. T6 was my go to for almost everything. The moly content in the old CJ never had issues with wet clutches. Sportbike guys used it with great success for years and years.
Looks like I need to buy up the old stock locally. The moly oil additives...
Does the 1.4 have an anti shudder valve? Make sure that's not stuck closed with soot.
Does it sound normal cranking over? Does it sputter and try to start? Any smoke be it white or black out the exhaust? Does it smell like fuel after cranking?
If you must run a very very thin bead 1/16th of an inch at most and let it air dry until it's very lightly tacky (not goopy as dispensed).
Do you best to make sure the intake flanges are flat and free from debris, do the same for the head. I realise the head side is much more difficult to get...
What's wrong with the VW G070?
I've used G060 in the frozen MI winters and 100 degree summers for years without complaint. The G070 is nearly identical in viscosity to the old G060
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