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I know the air brakes need some time to get up to pressure - I doubt it takes that long though.

I try to buy from online vendors, but for those time sensitive items I've had to go to local parts stores. I have been pleasantly surprised a couple times. For example, I ordered a motor mount and when I got it it had the VW part number cast in it and had the VW/Audi logo ground off. Same...

We're definitely around...I just rarely check this section anymore since there's rarely any action. Turns out we have TDIsyncro in our neck of the woods - he's done some nice work and is working on an insane CBEA build.

I guess I forget what a stock TDI drives like.

Ya but then you'd have to drive a Buick...yuck!

Your engine will run more efficiently if it runs at warmer temps. Running cool promotes more carbon buildup and gives the oil less chance to burn off/evaporate water or fuel that makes it's way into the crankcase.

Until I got a bluetooth OBD reader and the Torque app for my Android phone, I thought my t-stat was fine as my gauge would always read 190 once at operating temp. Well it turns out my coolant temps never topped 80C (176F) while running even though the dummy gauge said so. Replaced t-stat and...

Why couldn't I have been born rich instead of good looking?? I want that Deltahawk engine for my homebuilt!!!

Where's the "Like" button when you need it??

Hmmm...try this one maybe? http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/4329/2002_Golf_Retrofit.pdf

Here's a link to my retrofit in case anyone is interested:

Where are people getting glass lenses from?

Hey Alex, very interesting writeup. I'll second the "Campbell Mod" nomination! I was one of your boostbox beta testers. As I mentioned in a pm a while ago, install went fine and the product worked great. I have since gotten a Malone tune so I just have the box turned off, but it's still...

Ya it bugged the hell out of me trying to figure out what it was - I only realized what it actually was one day when I shut the car off while the AC was still on and the vibration continued for a few seconds after the engine has stopped.

^^ +1 I also have a bad rad fan that vibrates - it's the smaller fan on the passenger side that comes on with the AC.

What I've been told is that even though the 17 is cheaper, you'll need to add a $100 adaptor for the compressor outlet, so take that into consideration. If my turbo ever goes I'll be going with the 17/22 forsure.

I bought my kit and tools from Brian at Roseland. Good to deal with.

I would also like to know - I am having somewhat similar problems on my ALH. Was your tach still reading correct rpm when you were having these problems? Can anyone tell me if the ALH has this sensor and where it's located?

You would need to re-balance after changing wheels, sorry for the bad news.

It's a homebuilt (Piel Super Diamant) that I just purchased. It's about 80% complete. I would have liked to build one from scratch but this was a steal I couldn't pass up.