What is the general reasoning for replacing the harness when you do an alternator/fuse block? Is it the actual charge wire, or the other connectors on that harness that are the issue?
Also searching for one, but if it's just the charge wire, I'll probably make my own and make it at least 2 or 0...
this is what I was doing when I detected the slip. and once I replaced the slave (OEM FTE slave used) I was able to do this without slips. I know better than to lug it or launch it, or just mash it to the floor on a fresh clutch for sure.
Once again, thanks to everyone for all of the advice!
Replaced and bled the slave and were in business, pedal feel was immensely better after replacement, so I'm assuming my original with 300k was fine until the system got disrupted. Thanks for the advice, definitely did a light scuff and cleanup of the engine side of the transmission. Test drove...
Definitely didn't launch it, just slowly accelerated up to probably 3.5k to make sure it would hold. Currently using the original slave, replaced the fork, tob, pivot ball, and spring with it. Cleaned the metal surfaces with brake clean but didn't hit the clutch material at all, and everything...
Fresh install of a SBC stage 2 endurance, engagement seems fine, and when feathered into higher RPM's it starts to slip. took it back apart and cant find evidence of the fork being caught on the cable mount bolt (re-used stock bolts), or the fork being improperly installed as i could move it...
Has anyone had luck getting VW/VWoA to cover the windshield delamination caused by the car sitting waiting on dieselgate repairs? Dealer I called told me it was a 'wear item'.
TIA!
The belt indicator is different, but i can swap those easy enough. I would like to create a harness to avoid cutting mine off the factory seats to swap to these. But if I were to do so, do wire colors line up the same or are there some differences?
I am attempting to put in seats from an early MKIV (99 or 00) into my 02. I have seen posts where people have made adapters to go the other way, but nothing to go this way. If anyone has diagrams or part numbers so that I could make my own adapters, I would appreciate it!
Anyone know if it has been done/ is easily converted? Have a chance at some really nice leathers. Came out of a MK3 Jetta and would be going in to a MK4 Jetta
I (finally) adjusted the length of my actuator rod so that it starts movement at 3psi and stops around 15/16psi. My MAF numbers are even further off afterwards. They're usually about 150-200 mg/str different at normal accel and around 2000ish rpm's. 3000+ i have a separation of around 400...
Even if it is cracked in half basically right in the middle of the cap?
Thanks, good to know. This will probably be my option as I don't have the resources to purchase a head being a student and all lol.
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