If you are willing to sell it, I will buy it. PM me with your PayPal address and I will send the $75 I have a 2002 MK4 Jetta, 5 speed with an ALH coming up on the next timing belt change in 15k miles, 547,000+miles on the odometer.
Testing:
A jumper can be connected from the battery +(positive) post to the fuel shutoff valve on the IP to test the problem. Please do not leave it installed after testing as it will run down your battery in about an hour. (An uninsulated ring terminal was put on the fuel cutoff connection to...
Is Relay 109 getting warm or hot (if the wagon runs)? I ended up crimping/smashing the female spade connectors on the Relay to ensure good contact. Also, Relay 109 can become worn out, so for $23 it can easily be replaced first.
To close out this thread, the blue and red wire terminals to the 109 relay were marginal. It would be ok when the vehicle was first started, but after running, it would heat up and not make solid electrical contact causing the voltage drop seen. Once the connections were made secure, there have...
I am agreeing on a bad connection. I can swap relays or reuse the same relay, just the act of removing and reseating the relay will allow the vehicle to restart when the problem is occurring.
I believe I have narrowed it down to the blue wire on the back of the 109 Relay. A jumper was used to...
If the engine has run for about 15 minutes, the engine will not restart. If the 109 relay is immediately replaced with a spare, the engine will immediately restart. I have (3) 109 relays that can be swapped, but have only been using two for these tests.
I have cleaned the following grounds...
This is still an ongoing problem. I have replaced the ECU, the 109 relay the wire from the ECU to the fuel cutoff switch on the IP and cleaned all of the grounds under the hood.
When the engine is first started, no problems. Once the engine has run for 15-20 minutes, it will not restart...
With the engine having run for 20 minutes, fully warmed, up and the problem occurring, the wire from the ECU to the IP ohms at 0.1-0.2ohms, well within the capabilities of my meter for good continuity.
I removed and replaced the ECU from a different TDI (same part number) with the immobilizer...
From the 10-pin to the fuel shut-off has good continuity when cold and warm, wiggling and giggling. Testing the female side, shows 9.7 V when the problem is occurring, so it is closer to the ECM end of things
The voltage to ground at the fuel cut-off when cold and key on is 12.7VDC. The voltage to ground at the fuel cut-off after running for about 25 minutes, turning the car off, and then key on is 9.7VDC The car does not stat. I will check Pin T212/120 when I can if not raining.
To the best of my ability, the wire has no breaks or chaffing marks. It is to rain tonight so nothing will be done, but if the weather clears, I will cut the wire and splice a new, known good wire in place to eliminate the possibility.
This is what I am thinking, the ECU is getting hot. Once...
I used my VCDS to verify the temperature and it was reading correctly. I replaced the coolant temperature sensor anyway because it is not hard to do and it is an inexpensive part. (The o-ring was hard, breaking in half as it was removed, so a leak was probably going to happen in the near term)...
I have a relatively new battery and the starter is only 2 years old. The car cranks well and usually starts up quickly when cold, or I jumper the fuel cut off switch on the IP.
I will try that to tomorrow.
One other issue that was noticed: I was jiggling wires looking for a loose/broken wire when my glow plug light began flashing. I replaced the glow plug harness several years ago and it is in good condition, as far as I can tell without unwrapping tons of cloth...
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