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Looks like you’re basically there!

Someone mixed up BEW and ALH

Bad control arm bushings, particularly the rear positioned will cause tire wear, as will worn or sagging struts, which will introduce more camber. If you haven’t changed those it’s definitely time. I recommend hitting up Black Forest Industries, they can build custom control arms with the...

Yeah, might just need a new bushing in there ultimately. So tired of working on the front suspension on this car…

If I were buying a first car for my kid, I would 1. I wouldn’t. They can buy their own damn car. 2. Get them something indestructible, like a Corolla High maintenance aged European vehicles are not for beginners.

Er, stupid question but what VW did that?

Serious zombie thread here, but I have a similar clunk that I fixed via a new control arm rear bolt. Symptoms were clunking after braking, but only after a hard acceleration. The bushing was shifting in the subframe causing a click that sounded like it was coming from the lower frame rail...

There’s no torque spec. Whatever torque gets the crimp crimped without cutting through it. I use this tool, it’s the best for the job. https://www.knipex.com/products/special-pliers/ear-clamp-pliers/ear-clamp-pliers/1098I220

Basically the same VDO speedo motor as B4s if I’m not mistaken

Wow! Wonder if you can retrofit the Speedo cable equipped VWs with mk3 motors?

You won’t break anything with that nozzle.

You can fit a bigger turbo fairly easily on that car. An easier route, however, is to just put bigger nozzles on it.

You’ll be cranking all day if you installed the fuel filter dry.

Fluctuating boost levels indicates some sort of leak at the boost control hoses. Since the stock turbo operates on pressure, not vacuum, it can be important to replace those with new hoses or install clamps to ensure you aren't leaking.

I had left a bolt off by accident or left it loose to where it fell out. The bracket will fatigue and break if a bolt is missing.

Before Saturday might be tough, but I’m in Los Angeles, maybe we can work something out for Sat? Shoot me a PM. I’m not an expert on the B4s but I’ve done extensive work on my A3 and have VCDS.

I’m not sure how different the door latch modules are on the B4s, but if you hear hissing from one of the doors when the door lock pump is running, there might be a compromised air bladder in the door latch mechanism or a leaky hose going to that door. This is a video explaining how they work.

You need one of these bad boys http://www.metalnerd.com/catalog/product/2644937fbe324184a25e586d88a2e97d Long bit holds the alternator shaft stationary Short socket turns counter clockwise to loosen the pulley off.

The Mk2 guys would love you. They’re using motors on the back of their clusters to put in a speedo signal…

None of the B4 ECUs are VIN coded. That was a mk4 thing. Euro ECUs had immobilizers but still weren’t VIN coded The issue you’ll run into with the ‘96 is the wiring. I am pretty sure you can’t just plug a later ECU in, but it appears you have done so on your other car so… maybe that actually...