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.002 to .0031 piston ring side clearance is what haynes manual says. I didnt measure it but it was more than that.

.0006 is what you are saying?

Should i be able to move the pistons side to side a small amount?

got it timed and primed and checked compression before starting it, (cold with no fuel in cylinders and got about the same 410...... Started it up, timing was still just below green line without adjustment and still runs like a dog and seems to smoke worse than before. I didnt get pics of the...

The engine has less than 3000 miles on it, has new rings, pistons, rods, bearings. It just had low compression (405) across all cylinders and was a dog and was only getting 35 to 40 mpg. It would pump up to 405 within 10 strokes and took well over 2 min to get below 200. I dont have a leakdown...

Pulled the head, Had a small oil/coolant leak on backside of no 4 piston and when I loosened the head bolts the 2 bolts between no 1 and 2 and 3 and 4 seamed to break loose easier. Maybe not torqued correctly. Measured protrusion and I have .96mm or .038in protrusion. Definitely needed a 1...

When talking about leak down what do you mean by the percentage is it a percentage of leakdown over a given time?

He also said he milled the head flat took off less than .003. I ordered new head bolts and a 1 and 2 hole head gasket in prep of changing them but still not sure that is the problem.

I dont have a leakdown tester but when I do the compression test it stays above 400 for at least 30 seconds and very gradually goes down. Yes you are correct I did the timing, but the engine builder did ground the crank to within .001 of straightness and put all new main and rod bearings in. yes...

I must clarify that this is a new block as well, due to the #3 rod breaking and creating a window on each side of my old block. The only thing that is from the old engine is the head and crank. The head/valves was checked (by the builder) and deemed good. The head only has about 30k miles on it...

When I put it together I triple checked the timing and it was all good. What do you mean by .5 points of compression for every hole size? you lost me on that.

Thanks for all the response! It kind of confirms what I was thinking. It had a 2 hole on it before and I had about 590 psi except for number 3 which was low. Hence the reason for the rebuild, (Bent rod that eventually broke) I had 405 when I 1st rebuit it and it is still 405 after 3k miles so I...

Im not sure how he selected a 3 hole. When I ask him, he didn't know and was being very vague. I didnt tell him how because I thought he knew how. That's why I questioning his work. He works on mostly gas motors. Should have done it myself.....So back to my original question will a thicker...

I have a 2003 jetta ALH motor that has been completely rebuilt(new rods, pistons, valves) by a local engine builder and I only have 405 psi on each cylinder. It smokes a lot during cold start up (its around 0 degrees here right now) but then smooths out and runs fine but does not have the power...

What do you mean torch the intake manifold

So did the 3rd gear thing and speed (63mph after 3 seconds) and power kept getting better to 7.0 QI and ran out of adjustment. Will need to Hammer mod it to get more. Is it uncommon to need to go that high or is it due to the 1019 injector tips?

sold it!

That is GREAT info I will try that and see what I get. I have already done Hammer mod and can go as high as 7 IQ but never heard of a way to optimally set it. Thanks

Thats what i thought , I have it set to 5.5 (was at 4.8) and it doesnt smoke as much at startup and seems to run better with more power.

timing was off, by 2 teeth on the flywheel. retimed it and it started up after about 10 rev. But it starts up rough and smoke a lot a startup. Smell like its over fueling. I have my IQ set at 4.8. Should I go higher?