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There was no MK4 GTD, but GTI was treated as trim level and not explicitly as engine variant, so for example there also is a VP37 110hp GTI (TDI) with 5speed. What you are looking for is PD115, PD130 and PD150. Engine codes AUY, AJM, ASZ and ARL. Starting at MY2000 for PD115. ARL and ASZ might...

You need to understand that the engine oil is putting its heat into the coolant via a heat exchanger. Same applies for the automatic transmission oil. While driving their temp will never be below the coolant. And age of oil is not an factor for the temperature. So if we look at this situation...

Do you have the ecu firmware that was originally paired with the transmission?

engine oil at 106°C is perfectly fine...

How do you determine that your temps are too high? Is your temp gauge raising? If not, you dont have an issue. If yes, then lowering the opening temperature of the thermostat will not fix it. Your temperature will still reach the red area in load situations, just a few seconds later as it can...

I fully agree with Genesis, you would just see more oscillating temps, but you would not really improve your situation... If you really have issues with heat, then i would exchange the water cooler for the R32/VR6 1J0121253S (look out for soldered fins!) Maybe yours is just clogged and/or the...

Correct, two more of the larger ones for the pump end

The part numbers are in the catalog. The small ones are 14x20mm (N0138495) and are at the steering rack end of the feed line. The larger are 16x22mm (N0138487) and are for the return hose at the rack and also fit the pump end of the feed line. VW uses aluminium but copper is also fine...

If you do not want to change the rods for tapered ones to use PD pistons, then you could go for ASV pistons. They have a cooling channel, but not everyone makes them. Kolbenschmidt and Mahle do not, they just sell the ALH version for both engines. Nüral has them with .25mm lowered deck height...

Sorry but i dont understand why and what for you are blaming the VW engineers? What i understand is that you expect the flanges to be exactly perpendicular to the beam. That is not the case. The wheels are leaning inwards at the top (negative camber) and towards each other in driving direction...

Easiest way would be to find all your PR-codes and check for the ones regarding the brakes. You can find the sticker on the first page of your service manual and another copy in the trunk left to your spare wheel. If you cant find it i can check it for you if you send me your VIN via PM...

DDAA has a 8 hole crank, which means you could mount stronger DMFs. I'd check if CUAA DMF or T5/T6 CXEC/DMZA DMF would fit. Things to look out would be if the teeth for the starter and the input shaft hole matches the one you have. I have no experience with these, but when cross checking i saw...

The OEM repair by VW is fitting a hose over both ends like in your picture they even have a part number for this short rubber hose: 443955665. Combined with two hose clamps N0243992. So nothing to worry about doing it this way and much better than trying to get an used part...

I would fix that first, the engine cover is not supposed to touch this. Thats most likely the cause for your issue. I can take a picture for you next time im at the car.

To answer your question: actually cyl1 with negative -0.94 is your strongest cylinder (at least in idle). The negative sign means that the ECU is reduing the injection quantity for that cylinder to match the rest.

The range is ± 2.0 mg/stroke for every cylinder individually. You dont combine/calculate anything, you just read. And you should read the value with hot engine, like you would do with timing related stuff Thats why i was curious what the scan tool said

Is there something (engine cover?) rubbing on the front top of the puck? It looks like something already created a chamfer there and it is now leaking? I use some flexible hose and a 90° bend instead of that plastic hose, as well as hose clamps at all connections points and also a small one...

what range is given by your tool? (just to be clear: I am curious what it says. Im still with my previous statement that there is no issue)

All within spec, dont do anything

Flange is the same for both ALH and AHF made out of either aluminium or plastic. Aluminium if you have the second flange attached to it with the three coolant glow plugs. Then it has the part number written before: 038121133A. For the plastic the part number is: 038121132C. But its more likely...