Search results

+1 Any updates about the larger (Stage 2?) hybrid units as well?

Searched through the thread and didn't see it on your site at all. Do you currently offer MK6 Golf/SportWagen headlight retrofits? Or are there issues with the sealant like with the MK6 Jetta lights you mentioned?

1,500 miles of highway driving does not equal 1,500 miles of stop and go miles. A clutch and flywheel surface don't wear or break in if you stick the car in 5th gear and cruise the highway. I'm sorry you're having your troubles OP. Unless there is some other factor that hasn't been discussed...

The funny part is everyone is talking about torque and horsepower figures and what the clutch can handle. But millere has not referenced if he followed the clutch break in period specified by SouthBend. He's under the rated horsepower and torque rating for the clutch, so then why is he slipping...

Subscribing as well. Do you happen to have any dyno sheets to post? I'm curious to see if the 256whp figure was STD or SAE. Either way I believe you that it's a monster, but if you're making that power while running out of fuel I can't WAIT to see what it makes once you get it retuned and...

ANYWAYS.... :D 2001 ALH. RC 3+, .681 5th Gear Usually bettwen 48mpg (heavy foot, 80+ mph, AC, etc.) and 55 mpg (light foot, 75 mph tops, no AC, etc.) Best tank ever was 59 mpg hand calculated over a 200 mile trip, 75 mph cruise.

I agree with you whole heartedly. But something still doesn't make sense. A true uncorrected 300whp car at sea level will make less power at altitude. But if an uncorrected 300whp car at altitude comes down to sea level it would make more power (more air = more power). This part makes sense...

Care to share your insight on this? It was under my understanding that correction factors (SAE/STD) are used to provide a relative comparable figure for cars that are dynoed at different locations....and that SAE correction factors take into consideration the temperature, station pressure, and...

Can't answer that question other than what I've seen on the forums. I know Storx's flywheel failed, but I think the clutch was fine. But proper clutch break-in will make a hell of a difference in how well a clutch holds, whether it is OEM or aftermarket.

Cliff notes: With just a tune and optional "equipment" delete package, you're looking at 170whp and 340wtq. Much more power than your ALH car ever had, and it doesn't require an upgraded clutch, injectors, etc. Conservatively you'll probably sit around ~50 mpg highway, but you might in fact see...

You only planning on running 25 psi max? I thought someone said somewhere these engines are capable of 260hp (NOT wheel horsepower) and 35 psi...and stock-ish mpg figures. Please correct me if I am wrong.

For 200whp you're going to need DEEP pockets like LNXGUY said. With that turbo and 3" exhaust I would go minimum PowerPlus764s, but Race520s would be better. I wouldn't put Race520s on a stock car, but you can always dial back the fuel injection easier than you can tell it to inject more fuel...

+1 to this. You need a support bracket because the thin wall stainless steel tubing can not support weight like a cast exhaust manifold. A turbo support bracket to take the weight off the manifold and put it onto the head is needed so this doesn't happen again.

+1 to everything here. Take a look at some of the cars that have *cough* had their exhaust parts simplified *cough* and you will see a DRASTIC improvement in gas mileage. Keep in mind that a DPF uses extra fuel to clean itself out as well.

Driving 75 mph ACTUAL (about 79-80 on the speedometer) I can get over 50 mpg. In the summer in 80* heat, with a stuck thermostat and slipping clutch, I got 57.1 mpg hand calculated on a tank of about ~300 miles. Full tank of gas, no wide open throttle or AC during the trip, traveling at an...

What kind of coolant temps are people logging in VAGCOM with the higher temp thermostat? With my new 87* stat I see low ti mid 90s while cruising on the highway in the winter. Aaron have you logged your car at all?

Just to clarify, the lights you bought are the same "de-branded" Hella E Codes like the pair posted in the beginning of the thread?

Buzzing sound coming from 53 relay (Starter Interlock Relay) when trying to stary? Kind of a unique situation here. Car ran fine, but after replacing the glow plugs with new units from Bora Parts I now have a buzzing sound coming from the 53 relay in spot 3 on the Thirteenfold Auxiliary Relay...

They are Yamaha WaveBlasters....basically single seat sit downs. Small and squirmy, but handle like a motorcycle on the water. :D They weigh ~320lbs empty each, so with full tanks of gas, life jackets, and all the other stuff I need I'm estimating the weight to be around 800 lbs, not including...

Nothing compared to some of the heavy loads that you guys haul, but I thought I would share: