Search results

  1. MunchiMk3

    IP won't produce adequate pressure

    I finally got it firing to my liking. Most of my issues seemingly revolved around nudging the QA to the left and right until it found adequate power. I replaced the solenoid and checked the grounds, all seems well now. Thanks for the advice. Also wanted to note that I couldn't turn the car off...
  2. MunchiMk3

    IP won't produce adequate pressure

    Thanks for the quick response. I do see tiny bubbles forming in the return line after each attempt. I also jumped a wire straight to the solenoid and it made clicking noises, but it wasn't the same solid CLICK it used to make; sounds much quieter than usual. As for checking the brackets/grounds...
  3. MunchiMk3

    IP won't produce adequate pressure

    How do I check for a faulty shut off valve? I think I'm having the same problem but don't quite know how to diagnose this. Backstory: I changed all the seals on the IP yesterday after months of dealing with long crank starts and now I'm getting near no pressure coming out the lines when trying...
  4. MunchiMk3

    Air in fuel system

    Post a picture of your fuel filter, does the return line have a plastic fitting that sits atop the fuel filter? I used to have issues with certain filters that had bad air leaks. Now I try to stick with Mann filters only. Might be your issue, might not be. Also, check the fuel send line running...
  5. MunchiMk3

    Trying to identify a faulty sensor

    I think I bought a temp sensor for the vr6 according to this post by user LG6R over at vwvortex. If so I think I'd be looking for an a/c cutout switch instead (aka F165, the third speed coolant fan control thermal switch)
  6. MunchiMk3

    Trying to identify a faulty sensor

    The coolant gauge doesn't change, I believe the 4 pin sensor controls that. However the fans do kick on. I swapped the bogus sensor with the one in the 2.0 and it runs completely normal. I took the jumper off the a/c pressure switch, recharged the system with 29.7 oz and the clutch kicked in no...
  7. MunchiMk3

    Trying to identify a faulty sensor

    I'm getting 0 ohms on the 2.0 sensor and 2k ohms on the tdi both at room temp. Given that the 2.0 sensor is probably an original vs this aftermarket one I installed on the tdi, I'd assume I bought the wrong switch or maybe the switch went bad?
  8. MunchiMk3

    Trying to identify a faulty sensor

    That's what I was thinking but am ultimately unsure, as I have yet to locate that switch on the circuit. I have another 2 pin sensor I believe is working fine on my 2.0 that I'm about to pull and test. See here.
  9. MunchiMk3

    Trying to identify a faulty sensor

    That F18 is this sensor located on the radiator. It controls the fan speeds 1 and 2. That 4 pin main coolant temperature sensor is this, located on the same hose as the 2 pin sensor I'm trying to identify, only closer to the block. As far as I know, the 4 pin sensor is for the temp gauge on the...
  10. MunchiMk3

    Trying to identify a faulty sensor

    I have a faulty sensor (I think) which I can only assume to be a coolant temp sensor running in line with the A/C circuit. When I jump the temp sensor, the A/C clutch kicks on as well as the rad fans (there's no pressure in the system so the A/C pressure switch is jumped at terminal 1 and 2 on...
  11. MunchiMk3

    Crank spins with bolt when removing sprocket

    So I believe I have removed the sprocket without damaging anything. I don't know how to upload photos so I created an album, I think. The motor still runs, it has 412,000 on it right now. Just wanted to say thank you to everyone that replied and offered insight.
  12. MunchiMk3

    Crank spins with bolt when removing sprocket

    Nothing has been damaged yet, but I have definitely been noticing slipping in the timing. I've had to time out the motor at least 4 times in the past 6 months. That sprocket must be on there good because everytime I go to check the timing after having starting issues , the cam and IP are both...
  13. MunchiMk3

    Crank spins with bolt when removing sprocket

    It's definitely spinning but not loosely. Takes about 120 lb-ft of torque to get the sprocket to even slightly budge. I'm keeping the flywheel at TDC and the timing belt off. As Vince stated, the D keyway must have failed. The crank pulleys have a wobble as well when the engine is running so...
  14. MunchiMk3

    Crank spins with bolt when removing sprocket

    Would this require having access to the entire flywheel or just the TDC view port? I don't have the motor pulled so I wouldn't have easy access to the flywheel.
  15. MunchiMk3

    Crank spins with bolt when removing sprocket

    Yes it is bolted into the sprocket. I have removed this oil pan a couple times so shouldn't be too bad. I will give this method a go as the oil needs changing anyways. I've got everything TDC for the most part. Is there anything I should pay attention to on the crank once I've got it exposed?
  16. MunchiMk3

    Crank spins with bolt when removing sprocket

    1998 Jetta AHU As the title states, my crank is spinning when I go to remove the 19mm 12 point bolt. I am using the metalnerd counter crank tool but alas find it useless as the sprocket seems to have no catch on the crank. Thinking about just grinding the head off as I have no other way to grip...
Top