You cannot do spill port timing on these pumps (they are zero pre-stroke pumps). This means that injection starts when lift starts.
You can however dial indicate time them (with the proper tools). It should be .85mm lift at TDC (which equals 4.5 degrees BTDC). The orientation of the timing pin...
For a professional job, that includes replacing ALL seals, including the drive shaft seal, and no adjustment required after installing, see below:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Your-VW-TDI-Fuel-Injection-Pumps-resealed/253813471133?hash=item3b1876379d:g:lmgAAOSwj0NUdk7X:rk:1:pf:0
I do them for $600 here (north of Charlotte). That is replacing all the idlers, water pump, stretch bolts...
If your pump is leaking, I charge $150 to reseal it (which is my core business) and don't charge any extra to r and r the pump.
As stated above, a Jacobs engine brake works by opening the exhaust valve at near the top of the compression stroke of an engine, which eliminates the compression pressure from forcing the piston back down the "power" stroke.
By design, they are not compatible with engines using hydraulic...
The stop solenoid on the VP 37 IP is a secondary shut-off (in case the control sleeve sticks in the pump. WHen the key is turned of on a VP 37 pump the control sleeve actuator (in the QA housing) is actually what shuts the engine down. It CANNOT cause your engine to not shut off UNLESS there is...
Amazon has the LUK DMF kit mentioned above for a fair price ($192).
https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_6?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=luk+17-050&sprefix=luk+17%2Caps%2C295&crid=38H9LXDM8AW4D
Im running this clutch in both of my ALH's. The DMF is smoother than a standard...
The fuel temp sensors rarely fail (but are replaced often). They are easy to test (without even removing top cover) by probing pins 5 and 6 with an ohm meter. At 72 degrees (f) the resistance should be between 1200 and 4000 ohms (2600 is the spec, but it has a pretty wide tolerance).
It is more effective to prime the VP 37 system with pressure than vacuum. I say this because the design of the hydraulics inside the hydraulic head (the high pressure pumping element) is such that if any injection lines are loose, air will enter back into the pump through that line when vacuum...
this is fairly common, and it should be replaced (its hard to get tensioner to stay put when it is broken (very risky). The cover is less than $50, but is a good bit of work to replace. I keep a couple in stock and replace them when doing timing belts if broken.
Correct. Base time is set by the technician who indexed the drive hub onto the pumps drive shaft (provided the tech that installed it on the engine set it so the pin was centered at TDC. This is the case because the timing advance system in the VP 37 is hydraulically powered, and at low engine...
Just start at number one tdc of compression stroke, Its easy to get there - just turn the crank clockwise until the injection pump hub alignment hole is lined up (no need to remove valve cover). You are now "safe" to do #1 cylinder. Now put a mark on the front pulley, then turn the crank 180...
To verify for sure that it is your pump or not, remove the timing belt from the pump sprocket and check for any free rotation of the pump shaft (I am talking totally free rotation with absolutely no resistance at all). If it has more than a couple of degrees of free rotation, the drive shaft/cam...
Extremely unlikely its the pump. The only thing in the VP 37 pump that could cause a runaway would be a seized quantity adjust actuating shaft (I have never seen one seized - have rebuilt hundred of them). Even if that happened, the ignition switch SHOULD shut it down.
The stop solenoid on the...
IF your hub is installed correctly on the pump shaft (and they are from the factory, or from a skilled diesel fuel injection technician using the proper tools and specs), you should be able to get the timing pretty close by just adjusting the sprocket so that at TDC of the crank your alignment...
It is unlikely that it slipped in that direction (opposite the load). If the bolts were not tight enough, the load of the pump would force the slip to be the other way (these pumps take up to 5 horsepower to turn them at full load).
You won't likely find any metal inside the QA due to the very strong catch magnet on the bottom of it. I have resealed and rebuilt hundreds of these pumps, and never found any metal (other than rust) inside the QA assembly. But I do occasionally find metal on the catch magnet form a worn...
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