My friend gave me an injection pump that he thought had a worn out vane pump (the part of the pump that supplies fuel to the high pressure side). he said it just sucked to start after sitting but after that it worked fine. I ended up needing it for another car and swapped it on. It definitely...
I can tell you for pretty sure it's not the oil cooler, that is a completely isolated loop of coolant that doesn't really have a way of mixing. I guess the cooler could somehow spring a leak in the heat exchanger part but it's literally bathed in oil and I think it's made of stainless steel.
How do you know it's bad? Did you do recalibrate the lines by locking the shift tower and shifter and resetting the lines? Also if one of the cable ends is shot, it needs replacing as this will also make it hard to find gear
Yep you got multiple issues, one is the partially clogged cooling system which you seemed to have fixed. But the blend doors had their foam give out so the cold outside air is just bypassing the heater core and coming strait into the car. Running the recirculate should help get a little heat in...
Take it apart and see if the case is still useable and inspect every part closely. Then just order the parts you need and have a backup pump. They are pretty simple pumps compared to the old mechanical ve's.
Did you check the clutch and brake switch activation in vcds? Also the stalks on these cars have a habit of wearing out and can cause lots of problems with the cruise not working.
For the fuel you could get a pump to push it through a few filters and then back into the tank, let it circulate for a few hours. Do this after treating it.
Yeah, he's the one who sold me the first set of contacts for a denso starter. If I have an OEM starter or alt I have it done by him. His wife was actually my music teacher in school.
I wish they were more like the denso gear reduction units on Toyotas. I could rebuild one of those myself in like 10 minutes. It was never the motor, just the contacts in the solenoid that would get worn out.
So I pulled the starter after powering the solenoid with a wire, there was a very faint click, nothing like other starters I've had. Swapped it for a rebuilt at O'Reilly's, bought my last one with life time warranty back in 17, and she's back on the road.
starting my car its around 15F here, cycled the plugs twice and started cranking. engine just started to crack off and then it stopped, maybe 2 sec of cranking total.
got out, cables are still cold to the touch, starter was still cold. i checked my clutch switch with vcds, also no other codes...
I might have some from a broken radio. Not sure if I still have it, I might have tossed it, lol who am I kidding I'm a hoarder. Let me check my hoard, I'll let you know
Every since I started soldering them directly to power I haven't had a single one fail. I do believe they do not like repeated hot starts, which is what happens when the power plug gets wonky, that has killed a couple before I learned what I know now.
For the ballasts, Innovited Digital Ballast https://a.co/d/e1wr3tN. Now they're 17 each. Note they are 55w, so they drive the bulbs a bit harder but if you actually buy 55w bulbs they are fine. They will still drive 35w bulbs but you only get 3-4 years before they erode the bulbs back too far to...
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