I'm sure the part numbers in my original writeup are long superceded over a decade ago. Yeah, any rental slide hammer and whatever discs come with the kit works fine.
Glad y'all still find it useful. I've since had to replace the driver's side again and it appears time to do control arms as well... Chicago roads are taking their tolls.
The only real area for concern is that the belt can move the crank and cam toward each other in timing when doing up the tensioner. Make sure you're slipping the belt on in the preferred order so they don't move when you tension it the proper way.
Also, there's a fool's hole at 12 o'clock on...
Hahaha, no worries. I lost the applicator nozzle what came with the tube after my first oil pan replacement (basketball sized chunk of concrete) so I wasn't able to control the bead to my liking while doing my rear main seal / clutch. At least it was fairly even in size and I let it skin over...
They are the same.
Oh right, the 3 horizontal bolts, big ones. Those OEM fasteners are hex head cap screws, 16mm head. No telling what else is going on in there if those have been swapped for Torx.
All 4-cylinder non-AHU/1Z take the same oil pan and bolt. The bolt is really clever as it has an external 10mm hex and an internal 5mm hex so you can use either a short 10mm six-point socket on a wobble or a ball-end 5mm hex bit.
All that is also true for the first insert. And the SPI tap. And the drill bit.
Installing a second helicoil into the same hole is just as easy as one.
Please explain how this is not 100% taken care of by the threads from the SPI tap.
How is it difficult? Helicoils follow the thread cut by the SPI tap.
Stack in as many as you want, they will stay in the correct alignment by the external thread. Just make sure you break off the tang before putting in the next one.
I get what you're doing here, but I also haven't had a problem with my hand Mity Vac pulling vacuum on the return port to prime a VE pump in the past. It's not instant by any stretch of the imagination, but it works. A couple minutes with occasional pumping to keep vacuum up and it's good to go.
First, rule out the simple stuff.
Swap tires L/R then F/B and see if the noise goes away, gets better or gets worse.
If you spray paint where the ball joints attach to the LCA, you'll get it super close when putting it back together. I would rather do that than mess with the tie rod ends...
I'm guessing (having just returned from Ensenada last week) that he is stuck using 500 ppm Sulfur diesel and wants to be as nice to the DPF as possible.
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