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Convert CUA to single turbo (highly recommend GTE2260), and maybe also keep your DQ250. The DQ500 is hard to tune I hear, and not worth the trouble when DQ250 can handle plenty of abuse. Maybe a clutch pack upgrade while you have it out. Keep your GTD injectors, which may require custom lines...

I've seen it before is all, just a sanity check. Sounds like you got a faulty tensioner

Do you have the cam and fuel pump pulleys loose when tensioning?

Wait till you find out how much energy we need to support all the data centers that are being built. 26% of VA's energy consumption is from data centers alone.

Yep, I saw your video. The section of harness right by the MAP sensor

Thanks Andy, I do have a slight leak at the vacuum pump and maybe that could be getting worse? The valve cover was replaced pretty recently, so that is good for another couple hundred thousand miles I hope. Also, your son's Jetta cleanliness makes me jealous. I have a timing belt to do soon...

Yeah, it's just started to become a bit more wet recently.

Clutch was replaced 30k miles ago, had a new seal in the box with all the other parts and trusted the mechanic when they said (and agreed with the general sentiment I found here) not to touch it if it was dry. But with 300k on the motor...maybe this should have just been done anyway? How long...

Nice! Where exactly on the harness were you able to force the stall?

Haha, it's pretty sweet I gotta say. Sounds like a supercharger with the anti-surge design. Comparing to previous GTD2265 and GTB2365, it moves more airmass at the same boost levels, and thus we have hit the MAF limit. So that is next upgrade, 90mm BiTDI MAF. It's more responsive, and better low...

Try CP3 Upgrade & Turbo by MAC Performance on Facebook, he's usually very responsive

Battery tech is getting closer, solid-state batteries are going to change the EV industry IMO. VW is working with QuantumScape to bring their SSB to market that solves a lot of the current issues (range, safety, useful life, and charge time). I do wonder if VW will stay the course with that...

If you already have VCDS, you don't need dyno time to dial in the tune unless you're unable to get to empty open roads to do such logging. Also, user @Xtremefunky can tune these remotely if you prefer to have that flexibility, and you have the open roads to do proper datalogging. Whenever I...

If you really want to switch, here's my results with Mobil1 TDT 5W-40 I've never seen better results from any EA288. This is the oil I use in my ALH, so wanted to keep things simple. For the record, TDT is a fairly low weight on the 40 scale, closer to a 5w-30 but just enough to be rated 5w-40.

There is a port on the side of the cylinder head that can be used for oil pressure gauge, it is plugged with a threaded T30 fitting and copper washer. Located behind the cam adjuster, and near the engine hoist bracket. I forget the exact thread pitch, but it is a common size. As a reference...

You need to code the injectors with VCDS, AND also get your tuner to load in the correct duration maps for the injectors. To prime the system after replacing, first run the "fuel pump electronics" in Output Tests with VCDS for a minute or so (battery charger recommended). Then I usually unplug...

The P0697 code for open circuit is odd. No sensor given? If timing is spot on, I would be checking all of the fuel injector/rail/pump connectors are snugly connected. Additionally, the crank and cam position sensors. These would cause crank/no-starts if unplugged

I think most of VA's roads and highways were spared from Helene. The Blue Ridge Parkway in most of NC is closed, but from the direction you're coming from I doubt you'd venture that far south. Can luck out with warmish weather still in November, and less likely though still possible in...

The synchros in the newer 02Q are only brass on 4th and reverse (I think) gears. The others are a stamped steel with a felt-like material on the face that does the synchronizing/speed-matching action vs the ridged face of the older brass rings. A cost-cutting measure at its finest. At some...

Did you replace the damper or the crank position sensor? Did that resolve your issue? I'm still battling with mine. Starts perfectly if it hasn't sat for more than ten hours. Occasionally it starts ok, but has the bouncing idle after it starts that resembles rail drain vs CPS.