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I'll start this with a disclaimer, Wife's 15 golf has had a ghost check engine light since we got it, reactant level sensor "implausible" its mostly around in high temp high humidity, so we don't panic too bad as the cel comes and goes, I scan it when she mentions it and make sure its nothing...

Good Evening, My Wife's 2015 golf has developed a coolant leak while she is on a trip 14 hours from home, the mechanic who looked at it does not work on diesels, but says they think its coming from the water pump. Its leaking too fast to limp it far. Normally I take care of stuff like this...

They look like machine screws to me ;) but what do I know.. they are definately not the rear belly pan bolts, those are 6mm, and this party didn't involve that panel. The other "screw" is a trim screw, I know where it goes, right in the j clip that I dropped between the carpet and shift tunnel...

I awapped mine at 160, its had an easy life, new vw branded fluid was noticeably lighter colored, but nothing alarming about the old stuff, no burnt smell or glitter

most states will allow one readiness monitor to be unset and still pass your car. not sure about ME, but Mass and NY are like that.

the 2 screws t the left are my extras, I knew where the one on the right went

I just finished changing the evaporator core on my 2011 Jetta wagon, it was not a lot of fun, but it was not awfull to do at home either.. I got the whole mess back together after a few false starts, but I have 2 identical black oxide coated m5x18mm trus head torx machine screws, with a bit of...

Hate to resurrect this thread, but my wife's golf has been doing this for a couple years now, we have a check engine light with an error says adblue level implausible, I can read the level in measuring blocks, and it looks good.. occasionally we get the 600 mile warning, but it goes away by...

Mine was doing something like it last summer, pedal would stick down and you would have to pull up, I flushed the fluid, out it looked gross green with particulate, (guess 9 years was too long) been great since.

you can buy a multi sided tool that goes on a ratchet, its a bit tricky to use, but it works

last Bently was 2010, I use it for my 2011, its not bad, has most of the info you need. the new system is ERWIN, and ETKA is the parts manual, you have to pay a subscription, but it sounds like you can buy a one day pass and download the whole thing..

I just did mine, used a mityvac to suck out the reservoir, (it was pretty dark) and the power bleeder to bleed, lf,rf,lr,rr. I went by IDparts warning to keep it around 10 psi and it seemed fine, I noticed the fluid coming out of the calipers was very fresh almost new looking, but the stuff...

^ This ^ Only if you are sure your car has not gotten a new compressor, I'd look at he label on the compressor and go forward that way if you are not sure.

I'm at 204,000 miles, AFAIK its the first clutch, Ive had it for about the last 100k, my last wagon was still good at 130k.. I do tow a trailer occasionally as well. In my experience if you don't abuse it, its sized appropriately and will likely last well over 200,000.

You will need VCDS to read the rail pressure sensor, but if you have low fuel pressure you will get a code, and likely will have more issues than a hard start. have you checked your inter cooler pipe for water?

I would take the belly pan off and go from underneath, Ive not had to replace a starter, but the access from the bottom looks awesome. the belly pan comes off easy enough in my experience, you may however want use an impact driver on the 3 t35 bolts at the back edge of the pan..

The 200nm plus 180 degrees kicks my butt, with a breaker bar and cheater I can maybe get 100-120 degrees, I just leave it there, no issues with it loosening or bearing failure, IMO the spec is probably unnecessarily tight. That said, I have never had a problem getting the axle bolts out even...