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It's underneath, if possible patch it with epoxy after getting it nice and clean.

You can look at the part nos. for each

Subtlety and sarcasm don't come across with any clarity. But you are the Unicorn!

Happens a lot, especially with wire/connects.

Might be best to get a wiring diagram.

Could be one of the various temperature sensors.

Most radios have a wiring diagram printed on the radio.

All too common on these aging A4s. First on the list for many reported ailments.

Get a hose-in-ear or stethoscope, isolate the sound, could be the pump simply wore out. Not common.

OP- Figures

Jokes and sarcasm don't convey with accuracy. It's social media, must wear the thick skin.

Check timing, crank at TDC, cam slot fixed, IP hole should be very close. With that done you'll know it's close enough to start and run. Rereading the OP might guess it's one of those hard to find stupid simple issues. Like a flakey wire/connect or loose pipe, clogged snorkel, etc.

2 pieces of cast with nubs is what is stuck. The bottom one is fastened thru the door. Broke mine (99.5) when it was new. Was able to repair without popping off the door card. Similar to what happens with the wiper motor, cast aluminum gets fused together.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6502210

Shoot some PB Blaster in there daily then tap the base. Clean the excess off the finish.

I've always thought the same, but I've read too many threads that support it. My current TDI very rarely goes to Limp, yet does not store any code.

You may need to check for stored codes immediately after incident, while car is still running. So I've read.

If done properly an immobilizer delete should not affect other stuff.

Yes and yes