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Have you soot on the inside of the tailpipe?

Your VW speaks two diagnostic languages: generic OBD2 and proprietary VAG. The proprietary VAG language is much more detailed and specific, and covers many issues a generic OBD2 scanner will miss. VCDS speaks the proprietary VAG language very well, AND has the ability to show measuring...

My photoshop skills suck, but I grabbed a generic NFET-style schematic and added the two pin numbers etc: Because the intake flap motor is a low resistance it will pull pin 4 up to +12 until commanded low by the ECU... which most multimeters will interpret as varying and random voltages...

I'm presuming he means the pin on the ECU that turns the intake flap on by pulling the line low ("ground") using an internal FET, the other side of the intake flap being powered by a continuous +12. Due to the nature of the FET and internal diagnostic pull-down resistors that pin will appear...

It will be high (12v or so) until commanded "on" (to ground) by the ECU, in a pulse-moduled fashion. That's what I mean by "referenced to +12 not ground", and because it's pulse-modulated it will confuse many multimeters, hence me saying a scope is the best way to see what's going on.

If one man's opinion helps you sleep better at night I'd tell you that IMHO the crankshaft is probably the most bullet-proof part of the entire engine. It happily survives missed shifts, hydrolocking, turbo runaways, dirty oil, 24:1 compression, and has no problem bending rods to its bidding...

Just to be super SUPER clear: when it won't start is the tach bouncing normally during cranking? The reason this is important is because this does sound like a potentially intermittent crank sensor issue, which may or may not throw codes, and as the tach is driven off the crank sensor no tach...

Automotive harnesses are a frequent mouse treat and worth considering in the overall picture here... in this case the one between the ECU and the motor unit. Also not uncommon are issues at the connectors themselves.

And it's referenced to +12, not ground, so a small series resistor and an oscilloscope are really the best way to see what's happening. Swapping ECUs is a bit of a deal, so probably approached as a last resort and with a smoking gun diagnosis in hand. They rarely fail, but it has been known to...

Unfortunately running on starter fluid only suggests the engine has some compression but that's about it, especially on a diesel, since the starter fluid will ignite all by itself independent of what other fuel is injected, if any, and when. And yup, starter fluid can permanently damage a...

If you've changed the fuel filter and sender the system will need to be primed or it may never start, depending on the age and condition of the injection pump. To prime you'll need to apply vacuum with a vacuum pump to the return line where it returns to the fuel filter... until a good stream...

Yup, if it's no longer running at all you won't be able to check timing electrically, however, you can line up all the timing jigs and check for mechanical timing... details are in the "A4 pdf" linked in my sig. Did the engine stop starting before or after the fuel filter was changed? Any...

Ah ha. I think the CMP input theory probably trumps my fuel delivery length theory... the BEW ECU does need to see a reasonable amount of odd teeth gaps pass the CMP hall-effect before it knows exactly where things are.

Checking the timing, with a quality scan tool like VCDS that can do a scatter-graph, is a great way to assess not only the actual timing but also give some insight into the health of the IP.

Could be. IIRC it's about 350 ohms when full, down to 50 ohms when empty. 12V/350 ohms = 34 mA or 400ish mW, 12V/50 ohms = 240 mA or 2.8 watts. That said, well-cooled by the surrounding fuel so may have survived, depending on how much fuel was in the tank at the time. Fingers crossed!

Common mistake, but you have no power at the fuel tank and no relay because you don't have a fuel pump. The injection pump sucks fuel directly from the tank all the way thru the system. The two wires you do see are for the fuel level sensor, and since it's a low-impedance sensor you won't...

Every ALH I've ever had was a second or so faster at starting than every BEW I've ever had. I personally don't sweat it, and in my spare time chalk it up to the tandem pump needing to build up pressure thru the head to the injectors, vs. the VE IP being inches away from the ALH injectors. Just...

Highly unlikely you'd get the starter struggling to turn over the engine and then very aggressive banging from the engine with just an intake flap issue. Your friend didn't just top up the fuel tank, did they?

Good catch Fatmobile on the possibility of a leaking mainshaft seal. This used to fool us back in the old IDI days, as that part of the VE pump is under vacuum and so doesn't leak diesel when the seal is old/damaged... it just lets air in. Good chance the TDI pump is the same? It's also...

I (think?) the OP is talking about his BEW... if so... don't believe there are EGR adaptations for it. Could be wrong. :)