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Not too much has been happening, since I barely drive this car… a 4 door diesel Rabbit joined the stable about a year ago. Drove to Fishers IN, for work, so the B4V finally got to stretch its legs. Filled up before I left, and made it there on the same tank. Drove around town for 10 days, then...

It was originally stated that it was a sender, not an oil feed, but you have a M10 oil feed from the oil cooler? My ‘96 B4V has the oil feed at the top of the filter housing, and my ‘97 B4 had the feed, at the rear of the head. My ’97 A3 had the oil feed at the top of the filter flange. All...

I’d take it off and weld it. If you don’t own a welder, take it to a muffler shop, and ask them to do it. My local mom and pop shop was always willing to help. -Todd

Oh, that connector… I was looking at the cylindrical connector…. -Todd

I don’t recall either of my B4s having a sender in the oil cooler…. -Todd

Geez… 3 rebuilds…? Odd…. I don’t remember that connector on my ‘97. Have you primed the injector lines? Try advancing the IP 1 tooth CW. As for the codes, do you hear the stop solenoid click with 12v? Try clearing the codes and see if they return. -Todd

If you have an electronics repair service around you, see what they’d charge. Any place that repairs old radios, speakers, etc. should be able to tackle the job, very easily. Caps are cheap… the values are mentioned in this forum, but you’d need to do a search. It’s been over a decade since...

I looked at the TDS for 5200. Metal is a recommended substrate, but It didn’t mention if the metal could be raw. Primer is optional, but wasn’t mandated. I‘d call tech support and ask about raw metal. I know for a fact 3M makes a 2 part panel bonding adhesive, that’s designed to be used on...

I used to use a lot of phosphoric acid when doing rust repair. It‘s always recommended to topcoat with paint. Seems like you’re trying to use (window?) urethane as an encapsulator. Every windshield I’ve ever had glued in, (the most recent was a couple weeks ago) the frame was treated with a...

That’s how I did it. Welded scrap metal together to make it happen. Isn’t that just mild acid? You’ll still want to coat the metal with something… I used bulb bases from an old Subaru Loyale… look pretty identical. Those bulbs were removable. -Todd

It’s in a Bosch seal kit that’s readily available/searchable…. don’t have the pn handy. The mainshaft seal isn’t included in the kit… Pretty cheap. IF you have a waffle body pump, the timing cover gaskets aren’t included, and they may need to be sourced from overseas. Getting that advance...

If the caps are ignored, the Elmos chip will likely fail, and the cluster may be trashed. These clusters are becoming scarce… I’d do what you can to preserve it. Definitely two, maybe three. -Todd

There’s a microswitch built into the front handles. When you lock the doors with the key, and hold the key in the lock position, all windows will roll up. Something could be chafed and crossing signals. I’d also take a peek in the door bellow, to see if there’s any damaged wires, in there...

I’d start by cleaning all the grounds you can find… I don’t remember if the cluster ground is under the battery, or at the rear of the head. Cluster caps may need to be swapped. If so, and it’s ignored, other issues could arise. -Todd

Ah…. I have/had a set of hubs with those tone ring screw holes, and never knew what they were for. I never owned a B4 with ABS, so I was a bit stumped. Mystery solved…. -Todd

I’ve had it too long, to let it go for something as trivial as this. My mistake, so it’s my responsibility to fix it. Parts were nearly here, so more cleaning… DIY crank lock and more Sharpie witness marks. Used the cam that went with the head. Forgot the end was broken, but it had...

Fair enough…. I mentioned it’s been a while (and memory), so an extra 0 needs to be added, lol. .05A. -Todd

Nope…. coincidentally I watched that link a few nights ago. Thankfully I haven’t needed to do this in a long while, but I just put my meter (set to amps) between the negative battery post and cable to see if there is a draw… from memory, a draw up to .5A is acceptable. Then pull one fuse at...

Looks great…. no clear coat issues, which I’m used to seeing. -Todd

Pulled the injectors, GPs, and oil pressure sender from the OG head. GPs were still good (barely within spec), but the project car’s GPs were well within spec. Used them instead, and tossed the OG ones with Rotbox’s engine as spares… 2 actually came from Rotbox. Prepped the turbo and its...