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You guys have impressive ears. I appreciate the help. Is it normal for a DMF to go after only 128k miles? And are there suggestions for how to rule out other things or zero in on this as the issue? I think the intermittent noise was there prior to my DSG fluid change but I'm not 100% positive...

2011 Sportwagen with about 128k miles. I just did the DSG service, and while I was under the car finishing things up, I heard this rattling or scraping sound. Captured it here in this video, and it comes on at 0:19 and lasts about one second, then again at 0:51 for about four seconds. Any...

Process went smoothly but then after I finished I heard a strange noise underneath the car, I think unrelated to the DSG. Going to start a new thread about that. The sound is at 0:19 seconds for about 1 second, then again at 0:51 for about 4 seconds.

Thanks ilyago. Yes, I think this one is going back on the market soon because it's an automatic. Just purchased it this past spring, and I think we underestimated our attachment to shifting gears, as we still do in our '04.

Got my stuff all lined up and ready to do this DSG service. I don't have a lift or any way to measure temperature of the transmission fluid. So my questions now are: 1) How critical is the level of the car? I do have ramps and a jack and axle stands. If level is not critical, I would roll up on...

Pudman suggestion is a good place to start. Since you mentioned it won't suck up any fuel, makes me wonder if the fuel filter is clogged. This happened with my 04 TDI -- rough running, wouldn't climb hills, would die and not start -- turned out the fuel filter hadn't been changed in forever.

Thanks for the helpful advice. I ordered the funnel. I'm completing the 120k service on my 2011 Sportwagen and not likely to keep it much longer after that. If you are reading this and in need of the funnel kit (with the filter cap wrench and drain plug socket), I'll happily sell you one cheap.

Hey folks! I'm about to do the DSG service on my 2011 Sportwagen. Never done this before and am wondering if anyone has any influential advice about the funnel kit from IDParts vs the hand pump from Blauparts vs any other ideas to help this go well. I don't imagine I'll do this more than once...

Replaced the control arm today and it went more easily than anticipated. Kind of motivated to do the other side now. I did not end up loosening or removing the axle nut but can see why that would make it easier to just slide the new LCA into place. With those parts in the way I did need to do...

Helpful, thanks.

Had some other stuff come up and am now just getting back to this control arm replacement. Seatman, you suggest loosening the axle nut so I can swing the strut out of the way. Never having done this before, I'm wondering if I take the axle nut all the way off or just loosen, and then how does...

I checked the latch bar and it looks and feels solid and smooth. I don't see any worn areas or problems there.

Good question - I hadn't given it a close look. Will check it out and report back.

When I say "the handle pulls all the way out," I mean when I pull the outside handle, sometimes the door opens and sometimes the handle just pulls to its maximum play but it doesn't seem to affect the latch - door doesn't open.

My 2004 Jetta wagon is getting harder to open from the driver's side. Pulling the handle sometimes opens the door, sometimes not. I had tried the fix of tightening the cable, which worked briefly, but then it seemed to be slipping in its groove. I re-opened it and used a bit of epoxy to anchor...

Inner boot clamp turned out to be pretty easy. I had a spare large metal clamp, and I was able to put that on the boot before sliding the boot into place, and it stayed right in place so all I had to do was tighten the clamp. Really awkward to reach with a screwdriver, but I have a little...

Thanks! Got the replacement starter for my 2011 wagon (another recent thread - 😞) from IDParts.

Update: new control arm with bushing and ball joint is on the way. Yesterday I removed the worn tie rod end and quickly discovered that that most of the play was coming from the inner tie rod joint. It was a floppy mess. For anyone else considering this DIY, continuing to replace the whole tie...

Thanks Seatman - I am watching youtubes now on this repair -- any insights whether to try to just replace the bushings or replace the whole control arm? I'm cheap, and as I watch more videos I'm thinking I can probably manage to just get the bushings and not the whole assembly.

Thanks Keystoner. I'm thinking this photo, which I believe is the rear control arm bushing, indicates that's also in need of replacement?