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My windshield cracked today in the heat, so I would like one if possible. 2006 Jetta w/o rain sensing wipers. See you tomorrow! Thanks, Mark Scrichfield

Mine was eaten by mice a couple years ago, it's been gone and I haven't missed it.

If the rattle is outside the car, the screw clips/retainers for the screws on the inner fender come out and the inner fender pieces rattle together. I just had to fix this. Just take the wheel off, and you will see the piece flapping.

Awesome info...but right now at 176k miles, I don't see myself doing a cam at 200k. My mileage was over 50mpg for 2013, and the power is all there. I don't even think my dengine was fully broke in until 120k. My turbo actuator, now that is a different story, what a piece of junk.

Does it happen with the car stopped when turning the wheel, or when turning the wheel and driving around parking lots. If the latter, it could be the subframe shifting. ECS tuning sells a kit to remedy the problem...

To get the bottom rod off, you need a 1/4 drive ratchet, 2 long extensions, a wobbly socket, and a 10mm deep socket. It is easier to have someone above with a light and a regular screw driver to help guide the deep socket on the rod and the nut. For the ones above...take the surrounding plastic...

It's been a couple years since I've seen you guys...thinking I'll make it for a few hours (just need the wife to return and the car to magically wash itself)! See you guys in a bit!

Cool! Glad you figured it out!

Did you change your tranny fluid when you did the clutch? The fluid capacity has to be pumped in as it will run out the filler hole, unless the fluid was changed with the tranny out of the car. As it is an issue isolated to third, I would start there. My 2 cents.

I hate to tell you, but you may have 2 issues. Your symptoms of a loss of power up hills does sound like the actuator. An easier way test, is have someone else start the car while you watch the actuator rod, if it extends slowly upon startup it is working, if it tries to extend and you have to...

Have you taken the door apart or had a body shop take it apart? If so, make sure it was put together right. If it has never been taken apart, I would first squirt wd40 into the door handle cracks and into the latch in the door jam, start there. I had this happen a few years ago and haven't...

Have someone start the car and see if the actuator rod pushes down upon car start...if not, then pull the vaccum hose off the actuator and using a vaccum gage, see if you have vaccum with the engine idling. If you do have vaccum, the N75 is good and the actuator is toast. idparts just started...

Was there a soft code registered that didn't throw a check engine light? Sounds like the car throws into limp mode going up hills.

Front center grill...pull hard. It is really hard to get out and you will most likely break a clip or two. Plastic trim removal tools inserted around the grill would probably help although I didn't do this to remove mine. Fog light grills have one screw, then pull them straight out.

Check out this thread for your Airbag light...pretty easy fix if you have access to the TSB's http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=370439

Fixed my airbag light on Saturday night...performed the procedures in TSB 6908-02. Fairly simple to follow, just involves eliminating a plug and connecting the wires through butt connectors, or in my case we soldered the wires together. Took about 45 minutes to remove seat and perform the fix...

Cool, hope all works out.

There is a recall on airbags for our cars...I need to search around as mine came on last week and comes back after I clear it with VCDS. Here is a link to a thread that has the recall letter in it from an owner. http://myfastgti.com/volkswagen/threads/13856-New-recall!!!!

Weird...soothappens had his leak for years out of the water pump seal, when we changed his timing belt and water pump at 100k, it went away... Continuous leaks can also be cause by the coolant hoses behind the motor getting a pin hole leak in them as oil tends to drip on them from the boost...

I use mobil 1 TDT and change every 10k miles. I also add a couple ounces of Lucas oil ZDDP to every change. Been adding the ZDDP since about 50k miles to increase zinc level and I just turned 150k the other day on the original cam and it is running strong. I used ELF Solaris for the first...