Do as P2B suggested and pull the valve cover and check for spider web cracks on the lifters….who knows you might get lucky but from my experience your probably gonna be pulling the head and sending it out.
Find the locking place for the crank, and use the tool to lock it. Then the cam shouldn't be too far off. Then you take the belt off, and move the cam till the locking pin goes in.
If the current one is working I would not worry or remove it to do the immobilizer delete.
As mentioned, get everything in top condition before considering a tune or mods. Research and learn first.
I was told if it is covered in a grey goo then the compressor needs replacement. but since the expansion valve was replaced and looked at with no contamination I would think its a good chance there wont be any.
A few of us were commenting today about how many ALHs are out there that are approaching 500K miles. The mechanicals are no problem. Just look carefully at cosmetics, especially rust on the front fenders, rocker panels, and around the trunk.
DO NOT take it to the dealer or they will tell you to replace your turbo. See the write-up in my signature and follow it to fix your over boost problem.
If your turbo is shot buy a different one used or quality new one. Possible that the you could replace the turbo core, but may not be worth the risk. If you buy a new turbo get a quality one not cheap. Its not worth a runaway.
The axles dangle loose, you can remove the ball joint retaining plate and slide the strut/carrier/axle out away from the transmission if you want more clearance, but you can normally wiggle the gearbox out from between the axles without doing that.
you can use either a 10 mm pump like you have or go with a 11 mm pump from an automatic…..it will also give you a boost in power with the manual injectors.
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