Search results

I had the kit installed at ~130k miles (using the in-place installation, on a non-refurbished gearbox), and I'm currently at 259k miles. So I've driven the kit for ~129k so far. I did have the box refurbished a while ago at 228k miles. It's running really nicely now. It would be most...

Many thanks for that :-) The gearbox is in the workshop this week. When I dropped it off this weekend, I'm pretty sure he mentioned the springs as something that should be changed, but I will drop him a line just to confirm.

Many thanks for the help :-)

Hi, could I ask for a couple of part numbers? The gearbox has done 228k miles total (the kit was fitted at about 110k miles). It's starting to show some signs of wear so I'm think it'd be a good idea to get it reconditioned. The kit was fitted in-situ without removing the gearbox, so the box...

Perhaps if there were differences in positioning of the bolt holes in the original OEM gearbox housing?

Could it be that the final adjustment (using shims) is ever so slightly out? i.e., steps 25 and 29. http://www.eurotuning.cz/images/image/en/optimizing/pdf/ET_6gear_installation_instructions.pdf There's also the shift link adjustment which it might be worth looking at (although it sounds...

Mine is still great thanks :-) Car's now at 165k miles, and I did the upgrade at (I think) about 130k miles. Also still on the original clutch which is impressive given that the car has been remapped & the higher gear will be putting extra torque through it. There are also a few others on...

Sweet. Was that at Stealth Racing or elsewhere (Vince did mention a T4 when I was having my last service done so perhaps that was yours)?

Start & go. If you get bad winters in your part of the world, then I would suggest maybe getting a frost-heater installed, so that the engine can be warmed up in advance. >also is at least 40 mpg possible? You have an extremely short commute, not enough for the engine to get warmed up. So...

Yeah, they should improve mpg (slightly) by directing the airflow around the wheels.

There is less energy in it (look at the BTUs). However, the biggest mpg drop you see in winter is due to the cold ... the engine takes longer to warm up, the fluids are more viscous, the air density is higher. IMHO these are more important factors than the BTU of the fuel.

Yes, that's normal. The less fuel you use, the less heat there is to warm up the engine. Try turning down the cabin temperature & fans a bit so that less heat is wasted (I normally run at 18c with the compressor off if the external temp is near zero, or at 'lo' with the compressor off if the...

Is there any risk that the problem might be the turbo seals?

Shouldn't be a problem as long as you are cautious- try blocking a small part off first, then build up.

It's very dependent upon the length of the trip. The shorter the trip, the worse the MPG. And this effect is magnified in winter. It is mostly irrelevant whether the engine is a PD or whatever (although the newer CR cars with DPFs will eventually suffer more due to clogging of the DPF).

>Its a 2002 1.9tdi ve engine 110hp. Well, that's pre-DPF (which is good), and the 1.9 engine (which is also good). A reasonably long drive should also be enough to let your engine warm up, so that's good too. Presumably your MPG figures are UK gallons rather than US gallons? If so, your mpg...

The MPG will drop as the weather gets colder - a number of factors cause this (denser air, engine takes longer to warm up, fluids are more viscous). What year is your car? Does it have a diesel-particulate-filter? How long is your average journey length?

On my car, the 0.588 is fine at speeds 60+ (and when just cruising on the flat, 50+ is OK, but IMHO you do need to change down to climb or accelerate). 60 is my usual motorway cruising speed. Around 1750rpm @ 60 which is near the torque peak on my engine. Obviously your engine, final...

New tyres (even LRR) will give lower mpg than old tyres, for two reasons. a) the circumference is higher if unworn (so the odo will be underreading compared to the old tyres) b) rolling resistance is higher when new compared to fully worn, because the bigger the blocks, the more they squirm...

That's the way that Tom (from the Audi A2 forum) asked for his to be set up, he's very happy with it. (I went for the 0.71 5th). Note that the price would be the same regardless (the actual physical gear needs to be changed, even if the ratio stays the same).