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Likely the clutch hydraulics as fluid is supplied from the master. Otherwise you're missing something in the brake system.

Maybe NOT that simple. If you follow this plan, then VW will most certainly check for codes and possibly detect the tune. Then it might get complicated as VW would have every right to decline a fix and your "tune" would have become a very expensive experiment. Whether placing the original...

Given our experience for three cars returned, if you drive the car in and there are no obvious flags such as a CEL, then modifications are never checked for nor mentioned. By the time they might be discovered you'll have your funds and it won't matter. That, or VW really won't care as the old...

Replace before it bites you.

Or... You can really screw the pooch if you're not careful. Don't try to fix what isn't broken and don't attempt to out engineer those who developed the vehicle. Little things (Easter Eggs) are different. You can fool with voltage to your headlamps and so many other things. These cars have...

First, you have a 12v system. Where are you missing the voltage? I'd look first at fuses and the fuse box. Corrosion and heat damage would be highly suspect. Then perhaps 12v directly to the pump. You could supply this easily simply with a small battery and not include the electrical system in...

Given the chance of so much being wrong, I think perhaps simple might be the answer... 1. Battery 2. Alternator Clutch 3. Alternator ( I'd place a small bet on the battery.) Good Luck.

Here's a kicker... Our 2004 RAM 250 Diesel? Original batteries. Our 2003 Kubota tractor? Same. No special care for either. Our son's Honda CRV? It eats batteries for lunch. All three Passats (2013 & two 2014's)? Never a glitch. Go figure.

1. Low on refrigerant. Coils freeze and ice. Ice blocks airflow. A/C off and ice melts and you're ready to do the whole thing over again. 2. Fan(s) possibly failed. Usually driving at speed will keep things cool enough to transfer cabin heat and keep things cool. 3. RCV. Yup! Another possible...

Probably not worth it, but we have a new SE seat. (Electric, driver's side, but no memory.) This in gray faux leather. My younger son poked a screw driver through the original and got a deal on the seat. He then totaled the car. So... No car, but a real nice seat!

EGR Cooler bushing is worn. Lots of fixes here from dirt cheap to expensive. Fix it asap.

Tone ring in the bearing assembly if electrical components (wires/connectors) are undamaged. A guess? You replaced bearing assemblies with low quality Chinese components. I did this unknowingly a couple of years ago on our RAM 2500. The bearings were just fine but ABS and braking were affected...

EGR Cooler bushing. Lots of fixes including just some foil and furnace cement. Very inexpensive and my cheap fix lasted over 50k miles. You'll find details here on the board. Very easy and very necessary if you wish to preserve the rubber hoses in the immediate area of the leak.

Piston cannot touch the lifter, except with help of a valve. There may be a slight mark on the piston top if a valve interfered with its upward travel. Usually nothing more. IF this happened DO NOT even consider anything but replacement of the valve and a thorough head inspection. Actually all...

We already know... No compression. So we have the possibility of valves, a badly leaking head (Maybe cracked, but I suspect not.), or bad head gasket. If either, then you'll be dumping coolant into the oil sump or out the exhaust. Then piston and rings. Very unlikely as these little engines...

Check your battery condition and electrical load. Alternator load will cause engine to gain rpm's. Otherwise ALL filters as this is the first rule of diesel. Vacuum lines need to be checked as does the turbo actuator motor. The vacuum components MUST hold vacuum and a pin hole anywhere in the...

Basically urea... Fertilizer. Dilute and use as such. Much better than wasting or allowing it into a stream or pond.

Just an aside... Bought a '13 SEL Premium for a bit over $28k out the door on 4/15/13. VW will buy back this Thursday for just slightly less than $30k. Tell me I didn't hit the lottery!

I suspect the morons have struck once again. The core is not fully seated. Because of this the flapper door control arm is binding. It's easy enough to diagnose if you can worm your way into the footwell. Start the car and adjust the temp. The arm will not move, or not move full travel. As I...

Methinks you'll find a split charge air hose. Maybe not too obvious, but there anyway. Otherwise I'd have to bet on a bad turbo even if indications are to the contrary. The whine you noticed is probably the clue. My guess is that you heard the whine either because the turbo was failing, or...