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Matt - that’s correct. As a result there was a minute amount of shift when I tightened the tensioner. Relaxing the tensioner completely, moving the waffled plastic piece back right against the lower piece, then reinstalling the bolt seemed to help that last little bit to keep the tensioner...

Thanks for the responses guys. What I did find is that there is a small 10mm bolt on the backside of the block that holds the plastic cover in place (where the tang engages from the tensioner.) During removal of the lower timing cover I removed this bolt as well. The plastic cover shifts ever so...

I installed my new timing belt and related rollers and tensioner. I set the tensioner arrow just to the right hand side of the notch, and snugged the nut. After 2 hand cranks the tensioner arrow is back about 4-5mm to the LEFT side of the notch. When I hand crank to a tight spot in the rotation...

Thanks to all for the help. I’m working through it slowly. After I replaced the VNT, it got better, but didn’t fix it completely. I have fixed the loose connection at the vacuum pump with silicone in the past, I should probably check it again. I have a few more vacuum lines to replace, need to...

Thanks guys. Gonna dig into it and see what I can find out. Gauge in my vac pump is broken, so I might have to figure smtg else out.

Nero - I have checked operation and holding vacuum, but not the pressure values at operation. I did bypass the egr solenoid, no luck, car still goes into limp mode. I have an extra VNT actuator, is there any special programming required to set it at the proper location? I don’t have VCDS...

Colby - thats correct I believe. The main feed is the port that leaks down while under vacuum, so if I’m interpreting it correctly, the system could still be seeing a vacuum leak even though the solenoid hasn’t actuated to close the valve. Which would make sense sorta seeing as it goes into limp...

So some searching tells me this is an anti-shudder valve solenoid. Question still stands; can I safely bypass this thing and drive the car to see if it solves limp mode / vacuum leak? Also allowing me to maintain driving until the new part arrives? Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Early ‘99 ALH Mk4. Going into limp mode around 70 mph during sustained boost. I installed a new frequency valve I had, no change. Been testing for leaks and I vacuum tested the ‘throttle actuator control valve’ as it’s called out on my under hood vacuum schematic. Under vacuum it slowly leaks...

Hit an animal and looking for the following parts for my early ‘99 ALH Jetta: Lower engine splash shield / belly pan Both small side splash shields Both front inner fender liners Both front fenders (black would be ideal) Plastic corner bumper grill inserts (left and right standard OE, or maybe...

Working on my new A3 TDI the other day I discovered a small hinged plastic door in my lower fog light grill area, under is a round plug with 3 pins inside. It says Calix on the cover so I can only assume it's a Calix brand frost heater. But I never got a cable with the car when I purchased it...

Why would you want to do all that work and spend that kind of money? No sarcasm, I am legitimately intrigued by the question.

Thank you for the clarification and good info! So if one wasn't worried about any difficulty of installation or access, and didn't do the whole ham fisted shifting thing, is the car streetable with this transmission in it? Basically that's what I'm looking for. I can find gear ratio numbers, etc...

I'm going to be taking the ALH TDI swap out of my 1999 Mk4 jetta (no power windows, mirrors, no sunroof) and putting it into a 2005 Jetta GLI (power windows, mirrors, incl sunroof). I have seen a few pages with similar Mk4 gasser to diesel swaps, but all the pictures are expired. Does anyone...

I believe you are right. I get them confused... Are the gear stacks interchangeable? Say my transmission has a stripped bolt hole, could I put the 5 speed guts into the 6 spd case?

By 'changed' do you mean swapping out gears? Changing final drive? I'm curious as I don't know a lot about the physical ratios from transmission to transmission. Pointless as in the car would not be feasable to drive? (my guess is that the gears are too high, and the TDI would bog down on...

Never seen anyone do this and wondering if anyone has tried it. I'm sure the gear ratios are a lot different, and maybe that is why there isn't much on it out there. I have access to a 6 spd swap out of an '05 GLI and was considering it since my current transmission has been quirky lately.

Are you parting all under the hood? Radiator / fan setup and compressor?

Thanks compu!

My '99 Mk4 ALH needs a new AC compressor. Is it interchangeable with the compressor from a 2.0L engine?