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yes, I took It to a VW specialist who put a new fuel pressure regulator (DRV) on and it was cured. the new pressure regulator was about £350 from TPS (A VAG genuine parts supplier), compared to the first one which was from a seller on ebay and was £95. they both looked identical to me, but It...

My van is still not fixed. heres a recap: Developed a really rough idle Nov 2018 Replaced DRV (fuel pressure control valve, N276, RHS of rail, cost £95, genuine bosch part) which fixed the idle problem, van drove perfectly but after a few weeks I noticed it would go into limp mode over 3000rpm...

My Van developed a very rough idle around 6 months ago, after a bit of searching on the internet I found a few threads that recommended changing the DRV (fuel pressure regulator, the one that goes in the right hand side of the common rail if you were standing at the front) which I did, and now...

i have a feeling he will just try and sell me a GTB2260VK or something!

yes it's EDC 15. whats the ECM? ECU?

does nobody know?

here is the info for the standard turbo: Volkswagen Caddy 2004 - 2008 1.9 TDi - 105BHP Engine Code: BJB Turbo Type: BV39VTG VW OE Part Number Is: 038253065L

theres a possibility my turbo is on its way out, and in the event of failure i'd like to upgrade, but i would be in a rush as i need my van daily so i'm doing some research now... is there a direct fit for the BJB (caddy) engine that is a bit more powerful then the standard turbo? I think...

price drop $90 shipped

sold!

Sold!

038 130 073 AL, PD 150 injectors $350USD taken from a smashed up 2002 PD150 Golf price includes insured tracked delivery to US/CAN/EUR

p/n 038 906 012 L remapped to 134hp bought on ebay, no longer needed as it turns out the ECU in the car was tuned already and all we had to do was fix a wiring problem to get it to go! bought for £160 including delivery from the user pepeoi which is a company called power tuning chips in czech...

yes it was near what you said it should be (about .6 low and 4.5 high) the thing that gets me is I can't understand why someone would disconnect the black/white wire from the ECU and plug it into 12v constant in the fusebox ?

just took the car out for a spin and it's much quicker:D, hard to say as i've never driven a standard 110 AHF for a while but i'd say its faster? wheel spin is easy in 2nd and theres a little smoke at WOT. all i did was connect up the black/white wire back to the ECU plug and i put WD-40 on...

i have traced the wires to below the battery, they go to a connector plug and then dissapear back into the loom. i can get continuity on all wires from the QA plug back to the ECU plug, and a few wires go to this connector plug below the battery, and then dissapears into the loom somewhere...

ok i have just traced the wiring back to the ECU, near the ECU plug the wiring loom has been cut, a wire soldered on and ran back to the fusebox and stuck into the ECU fuse. the ECU fuse was blown when i found it and the new wire was in the 12v side?? so i re-connected the wiring and put in a...

after a few times turning the ignition back on and me trying to push the QA to max execution it seemed to stop working, and when the ignition was turned on it would just move from max execution about 5-6mm down and stop, then return to max execution. also like this the car would not start. i...

i've just changed the QA for the new (used) one and it's doing the exact same thing. it does it with both QA's now, doesn't matter if they are on the pump or in my hand so i think it must be another fault somewhere??

found a donor pump today, QA looks the same, last 3 digits of the part number are different but i don't think that will be a problem?? seal kit arrived in the post today so i will fit the new QA tomorrow and report my findings incedentally as i removed the lids of 4 different QA's to see if the...