Sorry I wasn't clear but there is a direct connection on "some" cluster swaps. Some may work but it depends on the year they changed things - somewhere around 99+. The car I dealt with would work the windows fine with the original cluster. The one I put in to match the swap Ecu would cause...
I had this problem with a manual swap. The problem is the cluster doesn't match the electronics of the ECU. You need to find a cluster that matches your car or the windows don't work. Someone put in a different year and things don't communicate right. The best way is to find your new TDI...
I have had this happen a few times. Make sure everything is working good on the engine end and lubricate if needed. Pull up the shifter boot cover and spray penetrating oil all over the internals and cables. Then I would sit in the car and move the lever back and forth hundreds of times...
If you say the linkage was replaced was it binding up? If so that can destroy the brushes or motor in some way. Like jettawreck says, these spares are all over the place and hardly ever needed. I even have a few around the parts bins. Just swap the motor out with a used one.
That's the ring and that's the picture I took. I found the rust swelling behind that was causing all my problems and once that was cleaned out the turbo has worked fine ever since. Yours may be something else but it is one problem area that oven cleaner will not deal with the turbo all...
Did you remove the ring behind the one shown in your hand? It almost looks like it is a part of the casting but that is where the rust can form and maybe what caused it to warp. Somewhere in my postings there is a post I made with a picture of it.
If the plate is warped I would look for other options. The tolerances are very tight on these turbos. You can find another used one with good vanes or whole or buy new. Just don't ever think of the cheap china ones. When they blow up you may blow up your engine with it in the process.
When you do take them apart, pull the 3 torx screws in the picture above and remove everything to clean properly. There is also a thin plate behind the parts that is good to remove as well. That is what I found rusted on one car and I couldn't figure out why everything was binding when I put...
I have only see vanes stick for reasons that required disassembly. I have had ones with parts worn out or full of oil and soot. I have had one with rust behind an internal plate that will push the parts together. Oven cleaner would have made it worse. Even with spraying stuff in where I...
The problem with the wire connections is you can't see the problem. It can be difficult to even see it with a cheap ohm meter as you will read continuity and even voltage but the wire can enough amps to work things right. I was just having issues with the car dying on the road even after...
The best way I found to figure this stuff out is to get everything dry and a hose with a full stream of water pouring where water would normally fall. Start at the bottom and work your way up the car around window and then to the sun roof. Keep looking until you find the problem. The hose...
Removing the turbo oil feed line off the turbo can be a problem without destroying the line. I have ground down wrenches to help with the ALH motors but the BEW ones are even harder. I thought I would try something with one sitting on the shop floor before I touched it with a wrench. I heated...
I am going to be running around a lot today so if you want to get a hold of me it is better to text me direct @ 847-366-4446 I do need to make some decisions soon if I am going to pull the parts off I need. If I do pull the parts I need you can have the rest for $150 (for the complete body.)...
Well it depends. I have a guy that wants the front struts off it and I need the sub-frame for another car. As of right now they are all on and it rolls fine. Send me somewhere to text picture and it is no problem. It just gives me fits to put pictures on this site. The whole rest of the...
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