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Until you get a tune you'll have a permanent CEL for the EGR delete, and another permanent CEL if there's no smart actuator. That said, I don't know if the BEW's smart actuator a direct replacement for the ALH turbo, so you may have no choice. The engine/turbo will run fine without the smart...

It's a fairly sophisticated anti-theft system with two distinct parts: - an RFID tag embedded in the key that allows the car to start - a battery-powered radio transmitter (the fob) that locks and unlocks the doors etc The keys, the specific cluster, and the specific ECU all have to be aware...

If the glow plug light is flashing there are most definitely codes set, but they will be VW-specific and you'll need a VW-specific scanner like VCDS to pick 'em up. It will be one or more of the following (none of which directly relate to a boost leak): 00741 Brake pedal monitoring -...

Since you're asking for opinions, here's mine: 1) I personally never do any substantial maintenance (anything other than an oil change, perhaps) JUST before a road trip. Car's running great, I leave it alone rather than take the chance of inadvertently disturbing the peace, bumping something...

1) Is all this happening with the car parked in the driveway, or are you on the road? You'll get no boost sitting in the driveway revving the engine... the engine needs to be pulling against a load. 2) where have you drilled and tapped into the intact tract to plumb in a boost gauge? Asking...

Also be aware that the glowplugs are numbered in the opposite order to the cylinders... dunno why. :) And, the code will not go away by itself after you replace the defective plug. Gotta be intentionally cleared.

An ALH fuel system in proper working order needs no lift pump, and thus no priming with the key for a few seconds before starting. :) Not saying this to be a smartass, simply to suggest that if you've added a lift pump and are still noticing some interesting starting behaviours it may be that...

The PD self-study pdf has a ton of good info on this, if you want to dig deep: http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_209.pdf TL/DR: The mechanical (cam-driven) section pressurizes the fuel, which is then released electronically. This has many advantages over purely mechanical...

Tis called the battery idiot light for a reason....it's an unreliable idiot sometimes. :) Many are those who wish the money they spent on a new regulator instead went towards a complete alternator

Did you inspect the slip rings when you replaced the voltage regulator the last time? If they are worn they will quickly wear down the new brushes on your replacement voltage regulator as well. :)

80% of the time a visual inspection will be all you need... I'd start there before ordering any gear. If you search here a little bit you should find some pretty detailed pictures of what typical cracks in the booster hose look like.

They can be intermittent for a bunch of reasons: vibration, temperature, electrical The usual suspects are the nipple connection at the booster or the hose between the vacuum pump and booster itself. If you can't see anything obvious on visual examination hooking up a vacuum gauge and then...

Did the "belts" include the timing belt, and if so, how did you set/confirm TDC at the crank, pump, and cam, and how did you confirm the final static timing value?

Have you been able to confirm what happens to the battery voltage during and after cranking?

If you're saying the battery voltage starts around 12.7V and bounces back to more-or-less that same value after you attempt to start the car the issue is likely a high-resistance connection in the high-current path to the starter. The high starter load causes the voltage downsteam of a bad...

What's a little weird about this one is the lack of codes... the ECU is generally pretty sensitive to control inputs that could have a safety component, and generally flags accelerator issues with the dreaded flashing glow plug light. That said, hard for the ECU to tell a normal idle signal...

Pretty sure that's an official VW TSB to resolve some noise issues due to poor shielding on the crank sensor wiring. Someone wiser than me will have the TSB number. Maybe back up a bit and tell us the problem you're trying to troubleshoot.

Thanks for reporting back with the eventual solution!

Are you jumping the starter at the solenoid connection or the main motor stud?

Gas engine and diesel engines have very different power and torque curves, so the tranny ratios are quite different .