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Thank you to you both. I just did a full service so all the fluids are fresh. I really didn’t want them mixing.

I have to replace the gasket from the oil filter housing to the block on my BEW. Is it just oil passages or are there coolant passages as well?

I'd also loosen or remove the cam to avoid any risk of contact.

Highway speeds will likely be an issue due to the large frontal area of the trailer. If it’s a v-nose then that changes things

Usually a flashing coolant light is low coolant level. If the coolant level is correct, it's often bad wires or the sender on the reservoir is bad. The last one I fixed was corrosion on the terminals in the fusebox.

Based on the information you've provided, I would suspect a failing crank pulley. You'll want to verify that isn't the case before driving much. A simple check of the cam to crank timing will let you know. It's a relatively basic task if you can find a good DIY.

You probably know this, but once the head is off, measure all the piston protrusions and see if anything is off. If you did that last time you had the head off, you’ll have some solid info to compare to.

Excessive cranking will cause a crank sensor fault due to the routing of the crank wires right over the starter motor. To me it sounds more like a runaway type scenario.

The QA has slotted holes. The adjustment is extremely sensitive. Even with marking it you will need to adjust it with Vcds

As someone who used to work in a fuel shop building mTDI pumps, I would love to see what you've built. Please post pictures!

Only the early mk2s (85-86??) didn’t have the thermo t.

AAZ is the same D ports as tdis.

As mentioned, it will bolt on. ALH port is D shaped, the other is 0 shaped. The difference is fairly drastic.

If the engine was forced out of time, you need to replace the timing belt after you verify that the engine will turn over properly with the old belt.

WARNING the fuel coming out of the injector has enough pressure to pierce your skin. If it does, the risk of amputation or death is very high. Stay clear of the spray.

Good knife/cutters for the fuel lines and timing belt, cordless ratchet if you really want to hurry. It’s a 10-15 minute procedure. Fuel will leak from the pump until it’s near empty so bring a container to put it in. Drift and big hammer if it’s ahu or 1z

Check to make sure the transmission vent isn't plugged up.

What would be more useful is testing how much fuel is returning from the injectors. There is always some return flow but excessive amounts indicate worn nozzles. That is oddly satisfying to watch though.

I had the same issue. I just bought a generic set of metric orings and put on the one that fit. There is not a sae equivalent. Sorry I can’t recall the size.

Wash it again but don’t drive so far and you will be able to pinpoint it.