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The search function works well on this site, I use advanced search titles only. https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/where-is-glow-plug-relay-for-2004-golf-tdi.287466/

coolant migration thru the level sensor maybe? This was an issue with some Mk4s.

A laptop to run VCDS can be had cheaply on Amazon. This is more than capable for less than $120 bucks: https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Latitude-3180-Education-Laptop/dp/B0799PT53G/ref=psdc_565108_t2_B07DV76SP9

Also keep in mind Mr. Hammer does all his work on a proper lift, not on his back in the driveway like us mere mortals. That makes a big difference in the silly easy part.

If it's been overheated the head will be most likely warped. I changed 2 head gaskets before the denial of bad head sunk in. Mine only overheated once.

The part that was removed is on top of the fuel lines. I haven't had any coolant overflow since the head was changed, I just left the bottle.

The overflow tube pops off the coolant bottle then find a piece of tubing to fit it. I put a 1 liter oil bottle next to the washer, drilled a hole in the top and put a copper 90 in it and put the tube on.

I had my system rigged up with an overflow plumbed into the overflow from the ball. When the boost would blow out the coolant I could catch most of it and dump it back in. I still run without an oring in the coolant cap(determined not to change the heater core). As long as it's not pushing any...

This is sounding like my same head gasket (turned out to be a warped head) problem. Would only get hot if I was into the boost. I drove it that way for about 10k miles, then changed the head gasket and it would be good for another 5k and do it all over again. After about 60k miles of this abuse...

I was wondering the same but if it comes in wrong I will return it for free. It's one of the only reasons I still have a prime account.

Amazon has the Mann C37153/1 version, that's the only one that I use. The cold weather type makes the filter much less likely to have problems if it gets really wet also. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DRNNEO/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I put in a GSP from Rockauto and after 15k shaking came back. I just ordered GKNs from FCP, a lifetime warranty, so swapping them out is not hard if they crap out in 20k.

The title says "Show what you tow", we need pics or it didn't happen.;)

Could a clogged oil squirt from under the piston cause this?

The same problem I had, you can't see anything. I had to use an inspection camera to see behind the cam pulley, but once I saw the oil in front of the seal I knew I would have to remove the belt to fix the leak.

No secrets, changing the head had nothing to do with a leaking cam seal, that head wasn't leaking but the cam seal was. I only brought up the head change because when I was under the car reconnecting the turbo and exhaust when I noted the back of the block was dry and had lots of loose chunky...

The leak stopped after I changed the cam seal. See post #6. The old head was warped and kept blowing combustion gas into the coolant under boost.

Yes, I think it would make its way to the turbo, my head was clean but the back of the block was covered in oil. I had a hard time identifying the oil leak and I had just changed the head about a week prior. When I changed the head the back of the block was dry and very rusty with flakes of rust...

Did you at least pull the timing belt cover and look at the cam seal area? When was the last timing belt done? I've never seen a vacuum pump seal leak like my cam seal did.