Also, on the gasket, using it will take away a bit of the support the oil pan lends to the block. Best to have those two bits as intimately connected as is possible. The Victor Reinz stuff IDP sells is quite fine for sealing up the oil pan joint *AND the cap does not seem to allow spoilage that...
New injectors? Holy macoroni.
For as long as I have had mine the spot you mention is not as smooth as the rest, but certainly not violent. And that is with the only common part replaced being the tank lift pump. That had no effect on the behaviour. It is pretty minor on mine.
Douglas
HA! after clocking a pair in a period separated by a month, I was about to stand outside and offer to buy tags for folk who were not taking all they could.
Douglas
And here I was avoiding a very large, very dead skunk in the middle of the road this morning. Right in the middle of the road. Not wanting to consider anything larger, panzer plate or no...
Douglas
Sooo...given my BEW's cam is showing some wear, and I want to renew its pumps, *AND it's DMF is showing some wear and a SMF will be going in I am going to just pull for R&R the whole thing. I have a second BEW I got, and it has half the miles, and its cam is not even throwing a suggestion of...
I got one swap done. A southern, one owner car. I would do it again...and probably even for a wagon. Wagon is a bit in the super specialty list. It is a TDI nut/lunatic that will deal with the handling hit of the heavier wagon, but needs haul space and that it is a manual TDI. So...who knows...
Getting the trans off with both flanges on is LOTS easier if it is all out ov the car. Putting it back on that way, whilst the engine is mounted is a PITA imo...it will go in, but why pick an extry difficulty inducer. Got this upcoming on my BEW, likely down to its still-dry rear main seal assy...
I think the Sachs VR6 disc and PP is rated to 300 ft lbs. All VR6 are not created equal. The 17-050 is definitely a lower capacity clutch. The LUK is a very smooth item though, and pedal nearly presses itself...LOL
My uprated clutch( past the VR6 ) is an ACT VR1-HDMM and it is rated for 340 on...
A 275k mile clutch is going to be well into the portion of the grip v wear graph where it is only declining as wear proceeds. Also, the DMF is likely to be getting a bit of wear and a SMF is decidedly preferable anyway.
Bigger nozzles( vs stock ) are going to flow more fuel, and the ECU making...
Not that I ever figured out why, but silly things happen when not-stock-power bulbs get installed. For headlights that is...never had anything but OE style running/turn bulbs put in.
Douglas
That is one heck of a set of symptoms. USUALLY, a stuck-engaged clutch will still let you shift the gearbox into neutral. It could be you can grab the crank with a 19mm and twist it forwards until it starts trying to pull the car forward, then shove the car forward whilst jiggling the gearshift(...
The duty cycle of such a boat is *FAR different from that of a car. Aside from track use, no 200 hp TDI is going to stay on that kind of output for more than a few tens of seconds in a row( at least in the States ). A reminder that the OEM 150 hp engine has a pile of upgrades compared to an ALH...
I would say that the underboost code is most likely caused by an actuator with a leak, or a hose connection that leaks.
Couple things to test, all worthy of a 'First' category, but since there is more than one, you do them all.
-with a vacuum source pump down the actuator and make sure it moves...
It is the piece of information I need. How fast w.r.t crank degrees do they act on the pumps. It will be a distance over degree of rotation. Why is unimportant, either the answer is out there or it is not... :) That the BHW might have different lobes is interesting for sure...
Douglas
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