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I'm talking about the actual chassis of the vehicle. I know the pinch weld will bend in. I've experienced that before trying to figure out how to get all 4 corners of the vehicle off the ground at the same time. What danger is there from bending the chassis if you place a jack under a bent-over...

Just a couple other notes. When I clear the code, it comes back immediately. And earlier when I tried removing + re-inserting the fuses, the light went off for maybe 50 feet of driving, then came back on.

Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery did not work unfortunately. Which wire is this? And could you guide me to the location of the ground wire for the pump?

I'll try that tonight, thanks. When you mention checking the ABS connector, do you mean the two-wire piece between the module and the pump?

I did not disconnect the battery. How would that affect things?

Is just putting a floor jack on a bent-over pinch weld that bad of an idea? Will the frame itself start to bend? Does the pinch weld provide that much rigidity?

I've got an ABS problem. My dash light is on, and with a VCDS scan, I get: 01276 - ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64) 16-00 - Signal Outside Specifications From the ross-tech site: Possible Symptoms Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON Possible Causes ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64) Connector...

Glad to hear. It was a bit of an odd shop. Didn't seem to like dealing with old cars.

Hi all, I just took my beetle to the shop for a general inspection, and they said I had a warped flywheel or pressure plate based on "clutch petal pulsation on initial engagement." I had no clue what they were talking about because everything had felt normal to me. Then afterward, I got into...

I have a very similar question, so I figured I would add it here. I ordered a new axle from IDParts (GKN), and the axle comes with grease already packed into the upper boot area that mounts to the transmission. When I pull the old axle off, there will be grease left on the transmission side...

Just searched bench bleeding and found this thread: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=430988 Seems like doing a gravity bleed to fill the caliper is as effective as bench bleeding?

Please, I'm not trying to say this is a good idea! I'm just trying to explain my confusion and find the best solution. Thank you for your previous suggestions. I'll make sure to use a better bleeding method next time, and I won't press the pedal all the way to the floor.

Immediately after that in the video he does the one man procedure and just repeatedly depresses the pedal with the bleeder open. 6:40 to be exact. I'm not making stuff up out of thin air here. The steering knuckle I posted earlier is one solid block of metal. There are two fingery bits...

I've been trying, and somehow regardless of the simplicity of the system, things people are saying for other systems don't seem to apply here. Is there a complete rundown located on tdiclub? This doesn't look like it's held on with two bolts...

My knuckle needs to be replaced then, right? I would be taking off serious thickness there to file out the pits. I guess the people using a 2x4 to keep their pedal depressed are wrong then? The system on our cars is different from others? Well, oops. I guess our cars are different than...

I found a tear in the boot for my CV axle, and it's been throwing grease out of there for a while. Like, possibly 6 months or more. I've also recently been experiencing poor fuel economy. Could my CV joint be so void of lube that friction in there is ruining my milage?

This is an old post, but I just want to update this for anyone having to do this on their Beetle. For A4's having cable-controlled HVAC systems (such as my NB, and probably most '99s), it's a two-piece heater box. So flushing the refrigerant is not necessary. Here's some more info...