as long as you don't let air into the system you don't need the vcds.
I didn't have the paper service manual with my 06 and did it the old way. Wish I had known, but it worked with no issues.
I had the vcds and used it anyway, but didn't make a difference, as I had not let air into the lines...
forgot, you could also look for a booster rebuilder. might be cheaper. check with some part shops and see if you have one local.
booster dewy rebuilds classic car ones, you could see if he does modern.
I have had a booster fail in an older car where it slowly started to engage the brakes. I didn't realize it, till I noticed how hard the car was straining to keep it at 60 mph.
My foot was almost on the floor.
Pulled the vacuum line and while it was hard to stop, it let me run it...
I am not sure it is the battery or an item that doesn't go to sleep.
in your first post, you mention you drove about 20 miles then shut it down for 2 hours and it wouldn't crank.
I would start looking at connectors and cables, and maybe ground paths.
Also when that happens again, measure...
I have not done anything with it. I had thought since it was a july build it had the upgraded version already, but haven't had any issues at 54k miles so never looked into replacing it.
Timing belt was just my paranoia due to age, otherwise it technically wasn't due yet either.
sold-2006 jetta pk 1 DSG TDI 54k miles in TX
starting this out at 8500.
price drop to 8000 obo.
It is silver with the dark grey interior. Package 1 car with the DSG.
So it has heated seats, but is the leatherette.
It just hit 54k miles, probably will be closer to 55k when I sell...
first it is usually recommended to give it 30 min at least.
second there is a switch in the hood you have to close or it won't go to sleep.
if you can set up the alarm, then you wait 30 min and see what your readings are. if you can't set up the alarm you have to find the switch to...
if that is the original type/manufacture of the vw battery, then yes they can be open. I did it to mine.
under the stickers are screwed in caps that you can pull out and see how much water is in there.
Us di water not tap.
but mine died right at 5 years and the replacement did too...
While you can, start with testing draw, it is far more likely the battery is going and you should have it tested first before going to the rest of the trouble of checking for draw while down.
here is the jist.
wire a 1.0 ohm 10 watt resistor in series with the negitive cable.
so one end...
you can buy it back for the difference, talk to the adjuster about it.
it will be a salvage title however if you do.
it used to be easier and cheap to buy it back from the insurance company. but I have heard they are harder to work with lately and it costs a bit more.
I think you threw the wrong parts at it.
I would have guessed at something else if it still had a charge.
my guess is it is now over charged.
First thing I would have checked is the blend doors.
see if an actuator died.
I would probably take it in or find the right charge and drop it back...
probably would not buy these again.
they wore out after 20k miles with an 80k mile warranty.
I put a set on the wifes car and they had to replace those because they were balding in patches.
not a tire wear issue. it would have tread then bald tread then bald in area's along the edge. never...
interesting, yours is in the years.
but it wasn't about the tubes coming undone, just the clogging.
mine, 2006, also leaked from the tubes, and once those were glued back it stopped doing it.
6 speed was the automatic/dsg transmission.
there are some known issues that once addressed should be fine. the cam failing and the flywheel issue are the only 2 big things.
couple of other minor issues can be fixed if you are handy like the egr leak and headliner.
buttons flaking off is an...