Search results

If it did not reach high RPMs, like above red line, you may be O.K. Tough engines. You do need to repair the whatever (turbo likely +?). May be a good idea to remove the valve cover and inspect for damage.

Don't leave D, we love having you around! It's social media, gotta wear the thick skin. Most of our members mean well, try to help...........

That's too bad. Hybrid is what I was considering for my partner's future car. We love our Gen.3 CR-V, but it's gonna wear out soon. So who makes a good hybrid? Original Thread: conclusion- 2015 TDI, but we think you should consider other cars for your purposes. VW guy what does all my hard...

WAG- If you just take it in, $1-2 thousand. If you troubleshoot and repair your ownself $5-5 hundred.

Since the TB service is so recent I would take a close look to see it's all proper. Aligned and tensioned. The other thing to consider is fuel, air+diesel. Clogged snow screen, dirty filter, loose big air pipes.

If you end up having to travel, Jon Hamilton is one of the best anywhere. Not cheap. Jon's Auto Jon Hamilton - RallyTDI ASE-Certified Mechanic 22291 State Route 4 Marysville, OH 43040 937-209-0187

The ALH has a permanent integral gasket. The cover can be used over and over until it can't. 2 drops of sealant at two 90 degree corners.

5 year old thread. mini has no activity since our forum software update (or longer). Wire harness r+r common solution for the PD

rumbling makes me think tires.

License is in the cable. You want this one. Since you bought a newer car you may have for a while, it might be nice to have. But if you're not gonna wrench on it yourself you may not need it, though it's always good for troubleshooting.

The chip tuners sometimes add text to the vehicle description in the ECU. No idea how you can DIY.

Some tuners add a note in the vehicle info. It can be cryptic.

We know it only monitors at certain RPMs. Only spec I could find is 25psi @2K. Guessing that's with a warmed up engine, but it may not matter.

I would think so- VW TDI Search Engine

$900 is nothing these days. From the photo of the cam, looks like it's been sitting outside with the valve cover off. Big issue, and why I wouldn't go near it-

I'm guessing here, but when you run the AC a while, the box should feel cold if it's a failed blend door. If not could be the compressor. Do both the radiator fans run with AC on?

That's normal with the wear indicator on. Refresh the parking brake cables, service the lever and return spring on the caliper. Go ahead and clean+re-grease the slider pins. Just because.

Once you evaluate the lower end as good and decide to do the top, do it all. Internals like camshaft should show little to no signs of wear. I'm lucky, my brother is a machinist. Much of the internals need machinist method and tools. You can do that stuff your ownself, but beware of cheap tools...

You may (or not) want a tune to leverage the 17, but your intercooler and cooling system should good.

Hopefully Frank can hook you up with a solution not requiring head remove. In the meantime, I'd try a fastener and a washer, if available an interference bolt, like they use on aircraft, might seal it. You can certainly get by with 3 glow plugs.