The only real area for concern is that the belt can move the crank and cam toward each other in timing when doing up the tensioner. Make sure you're slipping the belt on in the preferred order so they don't move when you tension it the proper way.
Also, there's a fool's hole at 12 o'clock on...
Hahaha, no worries. I lost the applicator nozzle what came with the tube after my first oil pan replacement (basketball sized chunk of concrete) so I wasn't able to control the bead to my liking while doing my rear main seal / clutch. At least it was fairly even in size and I let it skin over...
All 4-cylinder non-AHU/1Z take the same oil pan and bolt. The bolt is really clever as it has an external 10mm hex and an internal 5mm hex so you can use either a short 10mm six-point socket on a wobble or a ball-end 5mm hex bit.
All that is also true for the first insert. And the SPI tap. And the drill bit.
Installing a second helicoil into the same hole is just as easy as one.
Please explain how this is not 100% taken care of by the threads from the SPI tap.
How is it difficult? Helicoils follow the thread cut by the SPI tap.
Stack in as many as you want, they will stay in the correct alignment by the external thread. Just make sure you break off the tang before putting in the next one.
I get what you're doing here, but I also haven't had a problem with my hand Mity Vac pulling vacuum on the return port to prime a VE pump in the past. It's not instant by any stretch of the imagination, but it works. A couple minutes with occasional pumping to keep vacuum up and it's good to go.
First, rule out the simple stuff.
Swap tires L/R then F/B and see if the noise goes away, gets better or gets worse.
If you spray paint where the ball joints attach to the LCA, you'll get it super close when putting it back together. I would rather do that than mess with the tie rod ends...