shutoff valve question

[rulesluca]

Hello everybody, I'm in need of some help. I have a 2001 jetta alh that I recently raplaced the transmission (automatic), and now the car won't start, it cranks, but no start. I connected a code scanner and I got a code for shutoff valve open circuit or shorted to ground. I've done some research and all I couldn't find pointed to the obvious broken wire, bad relay (109), and the solenoid valve being bad. I don't have a multimeter/ohmmeter immediately on hand to test for continuity between the ecu and the other parts, but with a test light, by putting one lead to the + battery and the other to the screw on top of the solenoid, I can tell the solenoid itself is grounded because the tester lights up. Is this an indicative that I need to replace the solenoid valve?
I know it is difficult to diagnose without the proper tools, but I also wouldn't like to start throwing money at it by guessing, and that's why I need your help.
Any ideas?
Thank you for any and all the help.

 

[Vince Waldon]

Electrically speaking, the solenoid is a fairly short length of wire coiled to ground, so it will look like it's grounded when you test it as you have. You've confirmed the internal coil is has continuity to ground, which it should.

The next step: ground one side of your test light and attach the other to the screw on the top, then have someone turn the key. You should see the test light light up briefly... indicating the ECU is telling the solenoid to open.

If this test is good, you'll probably need to track down a multimeter and actually read the resistance of the coil itself, since it may have an internal short that your test light will not be able to distinguish from it's normal resistance.

 

[rulesluca]

Electrically speaking, the solenoid is a fairly short length of wire coiled to ground, so it will look like it's grounded when you test it as you have. You've confirmed the internal coil is has continuity to ground, which it should.

The next step: ground one side of your test light and attach the other to the screw on the top, then have someone turn the key. You should see the test light light up briefly... indicating the ECU is telling the solenoid to open.

If this test is good, you'll probably need to track down a multimeter and actually read the resistance of the coil itself, since it may have an internal short that your test light will not be able to distinguish from it's normal resistance.

I really appreciate your quick response. I did try your suggestion and it did in fact light up, I took the valve out and tested it by grounding the body and applying the +positive to the screw and the little plunger pulls in and out when disconnected. I was able to get my hands on a vcds cable and laptop, but couldn't do much with it as it didn't show the fault code anymore. I also pulled the relay off with the ignition switch on and the glow plug warning in the dash disappears and reappears when plugged back in, so I guess the relay is good although I'm sure all the steps I have taken are not the best. By tomorrow I should be able to have an analog multimeter and the vcds again. Any suggestions on steps to follow?

 

[csstevej]

Good chance you have and air leak any your gonna need to reprime the Injection pump.
While you changed your transmission, while moving the engine up and down you may have introduced air into the system via the thermostatic valve on top of your fuel filter. It’s a common source for air intrusion with the car off….won’t leak while running . Do you have a clear line from the filter to the IP? Does it have a large air bubble in it?

 

[rulesluca]

Good chance you have and air leak any your gonna need to reprime the Injection pump.
While you changed your transmission, while moving the engine up and down you may have introduced air into the system via the thermostatic valve on top of your fuel filter. It’s a common source for air intrusion with the car off….won’t leak while running . Do you have a clear line from the filter to the IP? Does it have a large air bubble in it?

You nailed it right on the spot. it was with the front end up for a couple of weeks or more and being my first diesel I was stomped. I did just that and now I have a working, running TDI.

You guys rock. Thank you all.