Clunk when releasing clutch

[erykkuld]

Quite inconsistent, not very loud, i am quite afraid something might blow up tho.

So i havent heard it yet from N to first gear, and neither from first to second, but from second to third, third to fourth and fourth to fifth it happens sometimes, it only happens if i release the clutch moderetely fast, so if i realease the clutch quite slowly no sound is heard.

I havent checked anything out yet, have seen on the web that it might be motor mounts, so those are probably the first thing im going to look at, i know i have a bit of play from the front left drive shaft on the gearbox side joint, the sound also comes from ish the left side, hard to really know but im pretty sure.

Any help? i have heard a clutch release bearing going bad on a friends car, but that was all the time when you engaged the clutch. So quite afraid now that it might be the gearbox on its last legs, also yeah this is the 6 speed 02m 4motion gearbox.

 

[Tdijarhead]

A 6 speed 4 motion diesel Golf???!!! We should have been so lucky to get those here!!!

Motor mounts, shifter cable ends, inner cv axle joint, I assume it has a dual mass flywheel? They separate and make noise, a new clutch solves that problem.

 

[erykkuld]

A 6 speed 4 motion diesel Golf???!!! We should have been so lucky to get those here!!!

Motor mounts, shifter cable ends, inner cv axle joint, I assume it has a dual mass flywheel? They separate and make noise, a new clutch solves that problem.

Yeah unsure what exactly can cause it, unsure if its shift cables, because sound only shows itself when i have released the clutch, and there is never a thud when i downshift into a gear

 

[Seatman]

Open the bonnet, handbrake on, select 1st, let the clutch out till it bites and watch the engine, see if it moves excessively.

For the flywheel listen down the bottom front at the bellhousing, get someone to give the throttle a rev and let it go, you often hear a knocking from the flywheel as the revs drop again.

Driveshafts are easy, just grab each one and feel for play

 

[erykkuld]

Open the bonnet, handbrake on, select 1st, let the clutch out till it bites and watch the engine, see if it moves excessively.

For the flywheel listen down the bottom front at the bellhousing, get someone to give the throttle a rev and let it go, you often hear a knocking from the flywheel as the revs drop again.

Driveshafts are easy, just grab each one and feel for play

Yeah i know for a fact that there is play in the front left drive axle/shaft on the cv joint closest to the gearbox, and from further driving (drove earlier it for 1 and a half hour) and came to the conclusion that it doesn't only happen when changing gear but also sometimes if i am holding it on the gas then letting the gas go fast it also slams a bit in the same area, so im hoping that its the drive shaft.

Reason why i didn't rule that one out straight away was because when i search up drive shaft gone bad it is not this that happens, then usually when you do steep turns it keeps on slamming as you go around and you can also hear it sometimes when driving straight.

But i will check out the things you suggested seatman, but for now we know that the joint is a bit loose, will try to get the whole car on a lift so i can rev it a bit in gear in first, since its a awd i cant really just prop it up in the front only

 

[Seatman]

No need to rev up in gear on a ramp, just stick it in 1st, hold the revs up a bit and let the clutch out till it bites and see if the engine moves a bit much.

Or even just grab hold of the top of the engine and get violent on it lol. Soon see if a mount is bad

 

[erykkuld]

No need to rev up in gear on a ramp, just stick it in 1st, hold the revs up a bit and let the clutch out till it bites and see if the engine moves a bit much.

Or even just grab hold of the top of the engine and get violent on it lol. Soon see if a mount is bad

oh yeah for the engine mount test i understood that, i thought you meant for checking the flywheel, can i check the flywheel not in gear?

 

[Seatman]

oh yeah for the engine mount test i understood that, i thought you meant for checking the flywheel, can i check the flywheel not in gear?

Yeh bud, rev it in neutral then let the revs settle, you often hear the clutch rattling as the revs drop. But tbh mine was kaput and I had no symptoms like you have.

 

[erykkuld]

Yeh bud, rev it in neutral then let the revs settle, you often hear the clutch rattling as the revs drop. But tbh mine was kaput and I had no symptoms like you have.

Alright so i have a video here: https://youtube.com/shorts/uBTHiyNM2Ss?feature=share

Dumb youtube posts it as shorts so can't get a description going, but i rev it 3 times, in first gear, with handbreak on, you can hear a sound the first time i do it but that was just my handbreak settling inn/creaking a bit. But i think that amount of engine movement is alright? Also i did try to toss the engine from side to side by hand but absolutely nothing, so that can probably rule out engine mounts?

I will try next to get under the car while someone revs it for me while in neutral, but im pretty sure this isn't the engine/trans/clutch now, as the sound really depends on how i shift, so per say if i shift hard, or let off the gas really fast while in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear. doesn't happen when i let off the gas fast in 5th but does happen sometimes when i shift hard into 5th, also no sounds whatsoever in 6th gear. If this would have been a clutch/trans issue i think it would have been way more consistent, and probably would be there all the time.

 

[erykkuld]

Yeh bud, rev it in neutral then let the revs settle, you often hear the clutch rattling as the revs drop. But tbh mine was kaput and I had no symptoms like you have.

Then i kinda want to ask you seatman, can i get the drivers side cv axle out and inn again without needing an alignment? Tired of doing those now

 

[Zak99b5]

That motor does move a decent amount.

Try a new dogbone mount (or replace the bushes in yours).

 

[Tdijarhead]

Ohhhh, I’d say the dog bone mount is dead. If you can move the engine with your hands front to rear then you should replace the dog bone. I’m not sure that’s the noise your hearing/feeling but you definitely have a bit of movement that needs to be addressed. The dog bone is underneath connecting the bottom of the engine to the subframe .

 

[erykkuld]

Ohhhh, I’d say the dog bone mount is dead. If you can move the engine with your hands front to rear then you should replace the dog bone. I’m not sure that’s the noise your hearing/feeling but you definitely have a bit of movement that needs to be addressed. The dog bone is underneath connecting the bottom of the engine to the subframe .

Alright i see, i will get that fixed also then, but then again, as it doesn't make any sound in that scenario that probably then isn't my issue? Will i be able to take the cv axle drivers side out without disturbing any suspension components? So i don't need to do an alignment

 

[Tdijarhead]

Drivers side yes, passenger side no some have figured out a way to get that out but I always take the 3 bolts that hold the ball joint loose.

Before doing an axle replace that dog bone if you’re lucky that will be it.

 

[erykkuld]

Drivers side yes, passenger side no some have figured out a way to get that out but I always take the 3 bolts that hold the ball joint loose.

Before doing an axle replace that dog bone if you’re lucky that will be it.

Alrighty, should i get that purple bushing instead? Have seen some talk about it from other forums and this one, might be risky tho as some people are complaining about vibrations, should i just go for oem? Is meyle good enough? can't find just the bushings so seems like ill have to replace the whole dogbone mount

 

[Seatman]

Then i kinda want to ask you seatman, can i get the drivers side cv axle out and inn again without needing an alignment? Tired of doing those now

Disconnect the main bolt of the ball joint and leave the 3 13mm ones alone then yes.
There's room for movement with those 3 smaller bolts but not with the big one. So if you just disconnect it the alignment won't be affected.

 

[erykkuld]

alright, now since I already have the cv joint ready to go (its a skf one) im basically ready to do that job, waiting for the mount to arrive, but now i have been looking through my service manuals and it says here the procedure is different with the hexagon nut, than what it would be with the 12-point one, why i am asking is because in the manual it says

Vehicles with 12-point nut – Lower vehicle until the wheels touch the ground. – Tighten 12-point nut to 200 Nm and then slacken off half a turn. – Move vehicle approx. 1 metre. – Tighten 12-point nut to 50 Nm

and then

Vehicles with hexagon bolt – Tighten hexagon bolt to 250 Nm + 90° and then loosen one half turn. – Turn the wheel hub 180°. Then tighten to 250 Nm and turn 90° further.

Probelm is my car has a 12 point nut, but the new joint came with a hexagon nut, what do i do? do i do the procedure for the 12-point nut since my car came with that or do i now do the hexagon nut procedure?????

 

[vandermic07]

erykkuld

use the Hex Nut procedure for the hex nut. do not reuse the 12 pt nut since they are TTY. Threads on the nut are the same, but I think the difference has to do with the geometry and stretch of the nut since they are TTY nuts. There are 2 different styles of nuts, that is why they gave a procedure for each. not sure why.

 

[erykkuld]

erykkuld

use the Hex Nut procedure for the hex nut. do not reuse the 12 pt nut since they are TTY. Threads on the nut are the same, but I think the difference has to do with the geometry and stretch of the nut since they are TTY nuts. There are 2 different styles of nuts, that is why they gave a procedure for each. not sure why.

alright i see, i have come to the point of where i have the car on jack stands, have removed the 12pt nut and the 6 m10 bolts connecting the axle to the trans flange, but now i hoped i would get the driveshaft without interrupting anything else but if stuck, can't get enough room to slip the driveshaft out.

 

[erykkuld]

Disconnect the main bolt of the ball joint and leave the 3 13mm ones alone then yes.
There's room for movement with those 3 smaller bolts but not with the big one. So if you just disconnect it the alignment won't be affected.

Seatman, so i should remove the top singular bolt connecting the ball joint to the spindle? then it wont affect my alignment?

 

[erykkuld]

Seatman, so i should remove the top singular bolt connecting the ball joint to the spindle? then it wont affect my alignment?

Alright live update, i just yanked it so hard and positioned the inner cv joint up and it popped out, ****ing gonna have a amazing time getting that back in thats for sure

 

[erykkuld]

Well after getting the inner joint off the actual shaft I found out the splines on where the joint was seated inn were almost entirely gone. All corroded away, so thats dissapointing, which manufacturer would you guys recommend for a new cv axle? SKF a good bet? (posting pics in a moment.)

 

[erykkuld]

http://imgur.com/a/dVKJbkg

 

[erykkuld]

http://imgur.com/a/dVKJbkg

Im guessing this is the reason why my car was making that really loud thud, it all makes sense now

 

[Seatman]

That happened on my golf when I had it, made a hellish noise on corners lol.

For the ball joint just hit the hub carrier around the ball joint with a hammer, a few sharp hits should knock the shaft of the ball joint loose. Don't hit the ball joint itself though.

 

[erykkuld]

That happened on my golf when I had it, made a hellish noise on corners lol.

For the ball joint just hit the hub carrier around the ball joint with a hammer, a few sharp hits should knock the shaft of the ball joint loose. Don't hit the ball joint itself though.

Don't think I will need to take it off to be honest, but Seatman, I can't reuse that shaft anymore right? Would a new SKF shaft be a good replacement?

 

[Seatman]

Don't think I will need to take it off to be honest, but Seatman, I can't reuse that shaft anymore right? Would a new SKF shaft be a good replacement?

I think you will need the ball joint off, otherwise you have to yank the cv into an abnormal angle to fit it in with a risk of one of the ball bearings popping out, guess how I know lol

SKF are usually decent, shouldn't think you'd have any problems from it.

 

[erykkuld]

I think you will need the ball joint off, otherwise you have to yank the cv into an abnormal angle to fit it in with a risk of one of the ball bearings popping out, guess how I know lol

SKF are usually decent, shouldn't think you'd have any problems from it.

oh damn alright, and to be completely sure only undo the singular bolt on top of the ball joint, when you first typed out that sentance about it i got confused

 

[vandermic07]

GKN is good too.

 

[erykkuld]

GKN is good too.

Yeah was looking at gkn too, think that is what was on the car from before (pretty sure gkn makes the oem for vw) But they were like half more expensive