UhOh
Top Post Dawg
One can check for worn mounts by how much the engine moves when letting out the clutch (and with a bit of throttle): brakes on (e-brake as well), put in gear and watch engine movement when starting to release clutch- kind of requires two people (one to "drive" and one to "watch"). Bad dogbone mount will readily show up in reverse (engine will rock excessively).
Clutch disks and flywheel surfaces can become heat-checked (excessive stress) and this will result in chatter. I think, however, that even in this case one can still get them to slip via method Nuje describes above.
It's also possible to have this kind of issue if any of the clutch disk lining has shed itself. Not unheard of on disks that still have ample material thickness (and early failures, bad bonding/rivets), but not very common.
SB Stage II daily in the wife's car with Malone Stage III and .219 nozzles and zero issues. Great clutch. I lean towards more expensive parts when performing labor intensive jobs, such as the case with a clutch job (or if there's a substantial safety aspect involved): for an extreme example of the ramifications of using cheap parts in a labor intensive job look for the stories of people installing cheap heater cores- 8 hour book time for this job; one doesn't want to do this kind of job more than once in one's lifetime!
NOTE: Newer Luk 17-050s do NOT hold as much power as earlier units; .206 nozzles and Malone Stage II tune can over-power one of these clutches- I have first-hand experience (I refused to listen to folks warning of this [my reasoning was that I wanted a soft clutch for the wife]); it's not an all out puking kind of over-powering, just a slight slipping feel in the most extreme situation/demand (5th gear and hammering it), though over the longer-term I would expect it to become less resilient.
Clutch disks and flywheel surfaces can become heat-checked (excessive stress) and this will result in chatter. I think, however, that even in this case one can still get them to slip via method Nuje describes above.
It's also possible to have this kind of issue if any of the clutch disk lining has shed itself. Not unheard of on disks that still have ample material thickness (and early failures, bad bonding/rivets), but not very common.
SB Stage II daily in the wife's car with Malone Stage III and .219 nozzles and zero issues. Great clutch. I lean towards more expensive parts when performing labor intensive jobs, such as the case with a clutch job (or if there's a substantial safety aspect involved): for an extreme example of the ramifications of using cheap parts in a labor intensive job look for the stories of people installing cheap heater cores- 8 hour book time for this job; one doesn't want to do this kind of job more than once in one's lifetime!
NOTE: Newer Luk 17-050s do NOT hold as much power as earlier units; .206 nozzles and Malone Stage II tune can over-power one of these clutches- I have first-hand experience (I refused to listen to folks warning of this [my reasoning was that I wanted a soft clutch for the wife]); it's not an all out puking kind of over-powering, just a slight slipping feel in the most extreme situation/demand (5th gear and hammering it), though over the longer-term I would expect it to become less resilient.
