Suggestions on how to best renew my suspension on a budget?

lardope

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2018
Location
Pennsylvania
TDI
MKIV
Hello! I don't quite understand how all the pieces of suspension works, but I imagine after 200k miles, mine is probably not what it should be any more. I think the term of what I am looking for is called "road isolation". Although the suspension is not shot (I do the bounce test where I push down on the car and see if it stabilizes and it seems fine), I wish it was better/more comfortable. When I'm going down the highway I just wish it would not react to everything. Let's be honest though, my TDI is about to reach 200k and I want it desperately to last another 3 years, but I imagine I'll be moving on from it after that. So not trying to spend a ton.

One suggestion I already had on a different post where I lamented all my busted oil pans I've had to replace, is to get new springs to help lift the car a little called "beef on a budget lift spring set" https://www.idparts.com/mk4golfjettaliftspringsetmoog-81134-81055-p-7623.html

I assume new springs will help... but I probably need to replace other things too right? Anyone have any advice?
 

Zak99b5

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2021
Location
Albany NY
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI
I just replaced all the dampers & springs in my Jetta for $300 or so. I got Moog quick struts for the front ($100 each, all new mounts, bearings, etc.). For the rears I got TRW springs (~$40 for the pair) and non-branded shocks ($60).

Not a performance suspension, but a decent aftermarket stock replacement. Car rides and handles just fine, and MUCH better than the beat suspension I removed. I understand these components—especially the dampers—won’t last as long as OE, Koni yellows, or Billy HDs, but I’ll deal with that in a few years.
 

IndigoBlueWagon

TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Joined
Aug 16, 2004
Location
South of Boston
TDI
'97 Passat, '99.5 Golf, '02 Jetta Wagon, '15 GSW
I'd get a set of Sachs OE replacement dampers, front and rear, with new mounts. Keep your springs. Also replace the rear bushings in the front control arms, and have the car inspected for ball joint and tie rod wear. Check the rear axle bushings, too, but if you're lucky they're still OK. Get a good alignment after everything's installed. The difference will be significant, and won't cost much more than $300.
 

Figit090

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2015
Location
Northern California
TDI
Lifted Unicorn! '03 Jetta GLS TDI Wagon, 5spd, Candy White, Black leather.
The IDparts beef on a budget spring set will bring you a little increase in ride height, but a skidplate is the best protection for oil pans at near stock ride height, since those springs won't give you a ton of lift. If you want to keep ride quality and not stiffen it up don't get the "beef on a budget" springs (vr6 springs up front are a bit more harsh over bumps). It won't be bad, but it will be a little stiffer. You can do a skidplate while you're working on suspension if you want one though! There's several options from aluminum and steel depending on vendor.

I'd get new shocks (thats for the rear) and struts (front), new bushings, and new top mounts front and rear (both contain rubber wearable parts). When I replaced my suspension (102k miles) my rear bushings were starting to look bad and I just did them all while I was in there since I had an incessant squeak. I think it was the front control arm bushing... but my swaybar made bushing noises too. For you, just do the rear bushing like IndigoBW said above will be good since you won't have the car more than a few years. It doesn't wear the same way, it's rotational while the rear bushing flexes more and tends to tear. For some handling boost get the Audi TT bushing, it's solid rubber vs. the stock one with holes in it.

Good improvement will be new shocks though, take you pick for budget and don't forget to replace your rear shock mount, and front strut mounts with fresh ones. I like my Koni Active shocks for my setup but my car isn't stock and I can't quite comment on the best OE ride quality dampers. Best for your budget/needs is probably Sachs though just based on price. I've heard KYB struts/shocks are decent too.

If you do the work yourself I recommend the MetalNerd strut spreader tool, and some kind of strut wrench, MetalNerd also makes a good tool for that. Get a good spring compressor to assemble the struts, you can rent one for free at a local auto store usually.

I used these free rental tools doing my bushings and suspension:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/evertough/tools---equipment/rental-tools/rental-tools--suspension---steering/9e8ada6cd6e2/rental-tools-evertough-ball-joint-u-joint-press-set/ren1/67045

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/evertough/tools---equipment/rental-tools/rental-tools--suspension---steering/9e8ada6cd6e2/rental-tools-evertough-macpherson-strut-spring-compressor/ren1/67051

I did my bushings while leaving the control arm attached to the car. It's tricky because there's not much room, but doable, having help or a very carefully selected support box is a good idea... or take the fender off for more space (i'm a dummy and didn't do that).

If you have someone do it, locate a tdi guru here




New solid TT bushing:

 

lardope

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2018
Location
Pennsylvania
TDI
MKIV
Thank you all so much for taking the time! I am planning on doing the work myself, and this is invaluable advice on how to proceed!
 

lardope

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2018
Location
Pennsylvania
TDI
MKIV
The IDparts beef on a budget spring set will bring you a little increase in ride height, but a skidplate is the best protection for oil pans at near stock ride height, since those springs won't give you a ton of lift. If you want to keep ride quality and not stiffen it up don't get the "beef on a budget" springs (vr6 springs up front are a bit more harsh over bumps). It won't be bad, but it will be a little stiffer. You can do a skidplate while you're working on suspension if you want one though! There's several options from aluminum and steel depending on vendor.

I'd get new shocks (thats for the rear) and struts (front), new bushings, and new top mounts front and rear (both contain rubber wearable parts). When I replaced my suspension (102k miles) my rear bushings were starting to look bad and I just did them all while I was in there since I had an incessant squeak. I think it was the front control arm bushing... but my swaybar made bushing noises too. For you, just do the rear bushing like IndigoBW said above will be good since you won't have the car more than a few years. It doesn't wear the same way, it's rotational while the rear bushing flexes more and tends to tear. For some handling boost get the Audi TT bushing, it's solid rubber vs. the stock one with holes in it.

Good improvement will be new shocks though, take you pick for budget and don't forget to replace your rear shock mount, and front strut mounts with fresh ones. I like my Koni Active shocks for my setup but my car isn't stock and I can't quite comment on the best OE ride quality dampers. Best for your budget/needs is probably Sachs though just based on price. I've heard KYB struts/shocks are decent too.

If you do the work yourself I recommend the MetalNerd strut spreader tool, and some kind of strut wrench, MetalNerd also makes a good tool for that. Get a good spring compressor to assemble the struts, you can rent one for free at a local auto store usually.

I used these free rental tools doing my bushings and suspension:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/evertough/tools---equipment/rental-tools/rental-tools--suspension---steering/9e8ada6cd6e2/rental-tools-evertough-ball-joint-u-joint-press-set/ren1/67045

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/evertough/tools---equipment/rental-tools/rental-tools--suspension---steering/9e8ada6cd6e2/rental-tools-evertough-macpherson-strut-spring-compressor/ren1/67051

I did my bushings while leaving the control arm attached to the car. It's tricky because there's not much room, but doable, having help or a very carefully selected support box is a good idea... or take the fender off for more space (i'm a dummy and didn't do that).

If you have someone do it, locate a tdi guru here
Hey I'm just getting around to doing this job, lol. Thanks for all your suggestions. I've opted for KYB quick struts. I am confused as to what the strut wrench you recommended that is sold on idparts is used for. Do I still need it if I am buying quick struts?

Thanks!
 

Zak99b5

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2021
Location
Albany NY
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI
Yes. It allows you to counterhold the strut shaft while tightening the top strut nut (above the plate in the engine compartment--keeps the struts from falling down when you jack up the car).

You can use other tools though--spark plug sockets are usually the correct size and have flats on them for an open-ended wrench, while you use the drive hole to insert an allen key to counterhold the strut.
 

Tdijarhead

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Location
Lawrenceville PA
TDI
2003 TDI Jetta Daughters Car, 2001 TDI Beetle, Wife’s car, 2005 Golf TDI Mine, all 5 spds

Genesis

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 26, 2003
Location
Sevier County TN
TDI
'03 Jetta Wagon
Note: While it may APPEAR the pax side will not come out due to clearance without dropping the control arm that's false. The compressors have to be put on upside down but trust me on this -- you CAN get the strut out without detaching anything on the control arm (e.g. ball joints, etc.) I've done it. The driver side is easy; its the pax side that isn't, but its possible. Just be CAREFUL; a compressor that comes off will run your day (and your car.)

Which of course saves you an alignment.

Now if you have reason to remove the control arms (e.g. bushing or ball joint replacement) then it doesn't matter. But if not -- it does.
 

lardope

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2018
Location
Pennsylvania
TDI
MKIV
I should point out that few here will install quick struts on their car because of the questionable quality.

Here is a DIY strut change write up.
Well that may be, but I am hoping the KYB brand will be better than other quick strut brands. I guess we'll see. That's what these older cars are for, learning lessons!
 

lardope

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2018
Location
Pennsylvania
TDI
MKIV
I am doing control arms, sway bar links, rebuilding the axles... at the same time while I'm in there, so I'm not too worried about getting them out.
 

lardope

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2018
Location
Pennsylvania
TDI
MKIV
On the front of the car, if you were going through the trouble of replacing control arms, sway bar links, struts, and rebuilding the axles.... would you just go ahead and do the tie rods too just so all the major components in that area would have a refresh? They don't technically need replacement right now. At least I don't think so. But they do have 200k miles on them....and total it would cost me <$100 extra in parts.

Thoughts?
 

IndigoBlueWagon

TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Joined
Aug 16, 2004
Location
South of Boston
TDI
'97 Passat, '99.5 Golf, '02 Jetta Wagon, '15 GSW
I'm amazed at how long front end components last on these cars. My wagon got new tie rods when I replaced the steering rack at 232K miles. I'm now at 448K and haven't touched either. I've replaced control arm bushings once in 20 years, and as far as I know the sway bar links are original. The front end aligns well and is tight.

So I wouldn't necessarily change them out unless you see issues.
 
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