Help me replace my rear axle bushings. SoCal. Seeking help or advice

lardope

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Jan 16, 2018
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Pennsylvania
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Hey!

Just as the title suggests, I have to replace my rear axle bushings and am scared to do it all by myself because I have to drop the axle and then get it back in place. I watched a youtube video and it is intimidating. The first mechanic I called wants $1200 just for the labor.

Anyone in SoCal want to help me to do this? I can pay, just not $1200. Or anyone have a recommendation for a mechanic to use?

Thanks!
 

Zak99b5

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$1200 for labor only on that job? Even if the hourly rate is $120, that's still 10 hours of labor (in know, captain obvious).

It should take a competent mechanic in a shop less than 4 hours to change out those bushings. Really, way less than 4 hours.

That sounds like an "I don't want to do this job" kinda quote.
 

lardope

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$1200 for labor only on that job? Even if the hourly rate is $120, that's still 10 hours of labor (in know, captain obvious).

It should take a competent mechanic in a shop less than 4 hours to change out those bushings. Really, way less than 4 hours.

That sounds like an "I don't want to do this job" kinda quote.
Thank you. I didn’t think of that but you were spot on. He sounded like he didn’t want to do it… I will call around for sure.
 

csstevej

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Seriously like Pak said……no more than two hours total and don’t have to remove the beam.
Either a sawsall or a pneumatic muffler cutter and old bushings out in 5 minutes.
 

lardope

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Seriously like Pak said……no more than two hours total and don’t have to remove the beam.
Either a sawsall or a pneumatic muffler cutter and old bushings out in 5 minutes.
I'm sure it it will take me all day, but looks like I have to do it. Quote the mechanic I called last, "Oh, you have to drop the I-beam for that.... I'll pass" Hahahaha
 

lardope

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Seriously like Pak said……no more than two hours total and don’t have to remove the beam.
Either a sawsall or a pneumatic muffler cutter and old bushings out in 5 minutes.
But you still have to lower the axle to get at the bushings right? As for removing the old bushings, there is a special tool sold at idparts I got, so I guess not too worried about that part.
 

Zak99b5

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Removal requires hammering out the center part of the old bushing, which can be facilitated by drilling a few holes in the rubber.

Then if you're lucky use an air hammer with appropriate bit to get the sleeves out of the housings.

If you're more like me, use a sawzall to cut the sleeve (to release the pressure of the interference fit) then a BFH and screwdrivers/chisels.

Hardest part really is pressing new ones in. I opted for poly bushings this time, as you don't need to press them in.
 

lardope

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Removal requires hammering out the center part of the old bushing, which can be facilitated by drilling a few holes in the rubber.

Then if you're lucky use an air hammer with appropriate bit to get the sleeves out of the housings.

If you're more like me, use a sawzall to cut the sleeve (to release the pressure of the interference fit) then a BFH and screwdrivers/chisels.

Hardest part really is pressing new ones in. I opted for poly bushings this time, as you don't need to press them in.
Okay, so I was mistaken. I said I bought a tool for removal of the bushings. But what I bought on idparts is a tool for pressing in the new bushings. But I also opted for poly bushings so I don't need to press them in I guess. In the one youtube video I am watching OP mentions that there is a special tool for removing the old bushings. I am curious what that is. Doesn't appear that idparts sells one so I am looking around. I can borrow a sawzall. I also have a drill, a dremel, screwdrivers, and a chisel.

Also, in the YouTube Video OP has to use ratchet straps to get the axle back into place...
 
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Zak99b5

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I think the ratchet straps were because his axle was behind the bracket. If you line up the bolt holes with the center of the bushings from underneath, you should be able just to jack them up into position.
 

csstevej

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Location
north nj
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2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,gluten for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB
I pull my brackets off……no alignment necessary….the marks are there already from where the bracket sits just put it back to same location……I do one side at a time…. No more than an hour a side, again hardest part is getting old bushing outer sleeve off….if you don’t have access to a pneumatic muffler cutter a a battery operated sawzall will wok as Zak pointed out…..you just need to make relief cuts to take the pressure off the outer sleeve and it comes right out.
 

snakeye

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For me the hardest part was dealing with the brake lines and their brackets, but my car was a rust belt car... It's really not a complicated job. I cut the old bushings out with a hacksaw I think. The worst shape your old bushings are in, the easier the job becomes.
 

Zak99b5

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For me the hardest part was dealing with the brake lines and their brackets, but my car was a rust belt car... It's really not a complicated job. I cut the old bushings out with a hacksaw I think. The worst shape your old bushings are in, the easier the job becomes.
My plan this time is to remove the clips for the brake lines and dremel a slot in the tabs so I can get the lines out without disconnecting them. I'll replace the tabs when I am done, and that should keep the brake lines where they belong.

Gotta love living in the rust belt and wrenching on 20 year-old cars....
 

jimmyfine

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Just did this on my '01, all the above advice is spot on, I got the first out with a 3 pound hammer and a punch, the other I found my coping saw and with a hardened blade cut like 90% thru the other then it was hammer time again. New poly bushings go in really easy, and an air hammer would work fantastically if you have one.

As for the axle beam, put the car on jack stands then remove the brake lines from the brackets (yes it is needed, I tried) and then let it drop down as needed, I used a scissor jack to lift the side I was not working on just slightly into the bracket so the axle beam was braced for hammering.
 

lardope

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Pennsylvania
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Hey thanks everyone for your help! Mission accomplished.

Now that the work is done, just wanted to comment on my experience:

I think there is no way of getting those old bushings out without power tools. For me, the saw zall worked perfectly (just watch that you don't cut into the bushing bracket itself like I did!). But if I didn't have some kind of power cutting tool, I really don't know what I would have done. They are tough and really in there.

There's a couple factors that made it difficult to get the rear axle beam back into place.
  1. It's shaped like a triangle on it's side
  2. Once you have new bushings in, it's a tight squeeze to get the beam back into place into the brackets.
  3. If you're working on an uneven surface, it's going to **** up your ability to simply lower it and raise it back into place and it remain in its proper alignment.
As a result, I had a hard time getting the axle back up where it needed to be to get the bolt holes lined up. I ended up needing to use a ratchet strap to pull it into place, as well as a scissor jack and pry bar to jostle it into place (in addition to a floor jack supporting the beam in the middle).

Finally, in the video I watched to show me how to do it, the bolts that go through the rear bushings to connect to the axle were put in from the outside of the car in going towards the center of the car, but my bolts were put in from the inside of the car facing out! This turned out to be a problem because on the passenger side, the gas tank prevents you from pulling out the bolt. There is not enough clearance. So I had to cut off the bolt and thread new ones from the outside-in.

Cheers!
 
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