Brake Problem?
- Thread starter jeffryD
- Start date
Mongler98
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2011
- Location
- COLORADO (SE of Denver)
- TDI
- 98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
Seriously?
Take it to a mechanic!
Take it to a mechanic!
TurboABA
Top Post Dawg
Nah.... Canadian brakes are known to be noisy
Fahrvegnugen
Veteran Member
^ this but if still upset, make sure the radio is above half way!
On your way to the shop of course
On your way to the shop of course
DivineChaos
Top Post Dawg
Why does none give their car a look over every oil change anymore. Why is this repair cossting me 3x more.. well, it's because you let service go for so long it broke these as a result.
Thanks @DivineChaos
My brother in law gave me an R1 ceramic brakes, do i still need to replace the rotors?
TurboABA
Top Post Dawg
I'm being punk'd again right?
Mongler98
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2011
- Location
- COLORADO (SE of Denver)
- TDI
- 98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
On this episode of "just rolled in"
"C.S. squeaking noise when braking just started yesterday"
"C.S. squeaking noise when braking just started yesterday"
TurboABA
Top Post Dawg
I would contact the manufacturer to file a complaint..... based on their website, something isn't correct.
https://www.r1concepts.com/ceramic said:
DivineChaos
Top Post Dawg
Yes. Vw rotors are expect to be replaced every brake pad change.
ToddA1
Top Post Dawg
zimbodel
Veteran Member
Is it a squeel that you only hear when you press down on the brake and gets worse as you press more? Or is it something else ?
You did not describe it properly. Does it have ceramic or metallic pads in at the moment ?
Did you check the thickness of the pads .. real easy.
If you put the rotor between two fingers what do you feel as you drag them from the center to the outside ?
Do you maybe feel a rough section between two smooth sections as you drag your fingers ?
Once you know at least the result from this, it is easier to try and pinpoint what you hear.
Can you attach an audio sample ?
Last edited:
zimbodel
Veteran Member
No, it costs so much more because there is not much honesty left in this profession.
In the 50s it was 33% markup as business practice.
Now with all the money printing techs charge you 600% of the time they actually take to do the job, seemingly taking the money printing lead.
It is an evil vicious cycle.
I have been screwed over too long and too many times not to have noticed.
Thanks @DivineChaos for the advice
Abacus
That helpful B4 guy
I hope you know this is not true. There are wear limits but the rotors are recommended to get replaced when met.
DivineChaos
Top Post Dawg
Generally when the pads are done the rotors will need surfacing. When that happens they will be under that limit. So yes. Replace the rotors. If it's just pad slapped. By the time 25% of the pads are gone, they are at the limit. Don't be cheap and risk your life. Replace them.
zimbodel
Veteran Member
Remember that ceramic disks tend to squeel even if nothing is wrong. That is one of the reasons people use metallic disks. the metallic disks are quieter, but they eat your rotors. If you recently changed to ceramic disks, the squeel might be due top that, but it is difficult to diagnose the squeel without all the info requested.
Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
You can resurface rotors probably once if you're using a good semi-metallic pad, after that a resurfacing will likely push them past the limit and legally, and no one should be turning them (resurfacing) at that point.
The nice thing here is that brake components in the aftermarket are very inexpensive, and the brake systems on these cars are very simple. Having said that it's often best practice in these cases to just replace everything wholesale while you're in there doing the brake job.
I've found that it's a toss-up between having rotors resurfaced and just buying new, with the cost for the resurfacing to be at least half, if not more, of the cost of a new rotor. And around here most places have just stopped using their lathes because it's simpler to just push boxes across the counter and less troublesome than keeping a lathe working properly.
If I could get someone to do a good resurfacing without having a hassle from it I'd do it, but getting that anymore is not an easy task.
The only way to find out what's going on in there is to dig into it and address it, the longer it gets put off the worse it will likely be. And brakes are not something you should delay in addressing.
My .02
Steve
The nice thing here is that brake components in the aftermarket are very inexpensive, and the brake systems on these cars are very simple. Having said that it's often best practice in these cases to just replace everything wholesale while you're in there doing the brake job.
I've found that it's a toss-up between having rotors resurfaced and just buying new, with the cost for the resurfacing to be at least half, if not more, of the cost of a new rotor. And around here most places have just stopped using their lathes because it's simpler to just push boxes across the counter and less troublesome than keeping a lathe working properly.
If I could get someone to do a good resurfacing without having a hassle from it I'd do it, but getting that anymore is not an easy task.
The only way to find out what's going on in there is to dig into it and address it, the longer it gets put off the worse it will likely be. And brakes are not something you should delay in addressing.
My .02
Steve
Abacus
That helpful B4 guy
Why will they need resurfacing? If they’re not deeply grooved, aren’t chattering (warped) and aren’t at their limit, they don’t need replacing.
ToddA1
Top Post Dawg
Oh….. you were being serious…. I take back my pass.
I agree, I’m a pad slapper. I’m still alive after all of the pad slapping. Scored or rotted, they get tossed, but this doesn’t happen often. I also don’t get flywheels resurfaced… 2x slapped!
-Todd
Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
I just have a preference for installing new pads against a prepared surface. I've installed pads on worn rotors before and it just takes a lot of time to get them seated in on an uneven surface.
I could see not doing it if the rotors were reasonable, but ordinarily the semi-metallic pads I've used really chew up rotors pretty fast.
People can and should do what they want, but I suggested resurface / replacement because it sounded to me, based on the noise described, like the pad backing was down on the rotor already in this case.
Steve
DivineChaos
Top Post Dawg
When I checked my brakes because my sensor wire broke. My rotors aren't badly grooved they don't have hard spots in them and they don't pulse any bit whatsoever. But the front and the back very outer edge of them there is a lip for more the pad wasn't making contact. It's a couple of Mills at this point. But by the time the pads are worn out I'm sure that the rotors will be at the outer limit of their minimum thickness. But I'm running a higher quality pad which wears the rotor as much as it wears the pad. It's also wide so now advised to replace the rotors as well because the pads are a lot harder. Back in the day with organic pads the pads are really soft so it didn't chew the rotor up. Unless you buy those cheap pads it's not the case anymore. It's also why pads and rotors on these cars last 100,000 miles.
DivineChaos
Top Post Dawg
Yes, I was being serious. Am I saying you can't do it? No you can do whatever the hell you want because it's your vehicle. Is it advised no. In all the manuals it says the check the thickness after rotors are resurfaced. Because you always get minor grooving in it sometimes there's cracking that you can't see until the resurfaced. Generally you'll never have a problem with it. But it's still not advised and it is not very safe.
DivineChaos
Top Post Dawg
So bottom line you don't absolutely have to replace your rotors. But if there is a lip on them and they should be resurfaced. But if they're already down past half of their wear point just had slapping them isn't advised. Not saying that you can't, because it's your car and you're going to do what you want with it. I'm saying what is safe, and what is recommended.
TurboABA
Top Post Dawg
It's a drama club in here....
If the OP doesn't know what he's doing or looking at, it doesn't matter what any of us say.
If he does, (or whoever wrenches on the vehicle) then that person should be capable of visually inspecting and\or measuring the thickness of the rotor to determine if they need to be replaced, etc.
There's no one solution fits all, unless the budget is not a factor, in which case, I'd replace EVERYTHING.... pads, rotors, calipers, hell.... might as well do the hubs\bearings since they will wear out eventually too.
If the OP doesn't know what he's doing or looking at, it doesn't matter what any of us say.
If he does, (or whoever wrenches on the vehicle) then that person should be capable of visually inspecting and\or measuring the thickness of the rotor to determine if they need to be replaced, etc.
There's no one solution fits all, unless the budget is not a factor, in which case, I'd replace EVERYTHING.... pads, rotors, calipers, hell.... might as well do the hubs\bearings since they will wear out eventually too.
I'll take your advice @DivineChaos, Thanks
Abacus
That helpful B4 guy
You can obviously do as you want, no worries there, but the safe recommendation is right in the Bentley Manual and it lists things as I describe. Minimal standards are the safety standards, not half that. I’m not sure why people think the manual isn’t good enough.
And replacing rear rotors on a B4 is not the same as replacing them on a Mk6 because on a B4 the wheel bearings are integrated with the rotor.
DivineChaos
Top Post Dawg
As on my 2wd truck front discs are part of the bearing. The discs are built thicker. States in manual to get them resurfaced. And states a minimum width. Which there good for 2 turnings, normally. Anyway. Just measure them. Front wear limit is 2mm and rear is 1mm. From what I can Google.
TurboABA
Top Post Dawg
......because you're a fellow Canuk and I'm having a soft moment...... here
we.tl
Volkswagen Passat 1995 Oficial Factory Repair Manual VW.rar
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