Drive axle install

[Software Mechanic]

I replaced my drive axles. One axle had the 12 point nut and the other had the 6 point nut. The are tightening instructions depend on the nut.

12 point nut:
- Torque to 148 ft-lb
- Loosen 1/2 turn
- Turn wheel 1/2 turn
- Tighten to 37 ft-lb plus 1/6 turn

6 point nut:
- Torque to 184 ft-lb plus 1/4 turn
- Loosen 1/2 turn
- Turn wheel 1/2 turn
- Torque to 184 ft-lb plus 1/4 turn

Why is there such a difference in the tightening instructions?

Thanks,
John

 

[snakeye]

Where are you getting these instructions? I don't have an answer for you, but I know that some, including myself, have had a nut come loose after following the correct torquing method, and now just use the "tighten till its tight" method.

I weigh 150lb, and lightly jump on the 1 foot long ratchet drive a few times. Seems to do the trick, been doing this for years with no issue.

 

[Metal Man]

Wasn't one of the original Bentley manuals flat out wrong with the torque specs for this? I wouldn't torque one different from the other. The twelve point nuts have the big washer on them, most of the 6 points don't. The earlier cars that actually used the six point nut had a separate big washer for under the nut. So, make sure you at least have a washer under the nut if not so equipped.
I make them as tight as my impact will make them.

 

[tgray]

37 ft lbs is for small bolts. Every axle I have ever done I just follow the above method of putting my 2 foot long breaker bar on the wheel while on the ground and jumping on it until it is tight. This is the amount of force it takes to get them off. If I weigh 150-60 lbs and stand on 18" of the wrench for support and figure a 1/4 past the 180 ft lb mark I think a careful jump or 2 puts my close to the ball park torque. The amount of points on a nut doesn't mean anything for the final torque number. The torque has to do with size and grade of the axle steel. I doubt you will be able to break anything with the jump method and it will hold strong. I have been driving through pot holes for over 600000 miles and never seen an issue.

 

[wonneber]

37 ft lbs is for small bolts.

the post indicated " - Tighten to 37 ft-lb plus 1/6 turn "
That 1/6 turn will be tight.

 

[vandermic07]

I wouldn't follow the Bentley Instructions for WB's either. When i first got my 01 Golf, I replaced the WB's and the next 3 sets started making noise in less than 20k miles. Found that the nut was coming loose. Next set, I stood on the breaker bar. They lasted over 100k miles.

 

[tgray]

VW makes Audi. Take a look at every axle spec they list just for another reference. Most everyone is in the 200 foot pound range. Some are tightened to about 150 and then given another 90 or 180 that would put them in the 200 range. I would trust the industry standard and guys that have done this stuff all their lives rather than a book that doesn't make sense. I wouldn't even drive the car out of the shop with 37 ft lbs of torque on a normal axle bolt.
However, take a look at the last one for the Audi A3. It lists 52 foot lbs and then another 90. Lets just say this could bring it up to 100 foot pounds. 1/6 of a turn on 37 foot lbs wouldn't do anything. This 52 foot lbs plus 90 would still seem low to me but maybe the nut has some kind of locktite glue on it or a special locking thread or some special locking nut as it says with ribs. With aftermarket parts all over the place who knows what is going on. Maybe something changed? Maybe the book is wrong? I have always tightened these nuts up in the 200 foot pound range (even the 12 point ones that came with the axle) and never have seen an issue with a customer or in the 600,000 plus miles I have put on the TDI's. These axle nuts need to hold the axle bearings together under torque twisting and shocks from pot holes.
Audi 90 Axle Nut Torque
1988-1991 FRONT 195/265-Ft/lbs/NM


1992-1995 FRONT 148/200-Ft/lbs/NM After tightening to this value, turn an additional 90°.

Quattro 1988-1991 FRONT 195/265-Ft/lbs/NM REAR 236/320-Ft/lbs/NM

1992-1995 FRONT 147/200-Ft/lbs/NM After tightening to this value, turn an additional 90°. REAR 177/240-Ft/lbs/NM

Audi 100 Axle Nut Torque
1989-1994 FRONT 147/200-Ft/lbs/NM After tightening to this value, turn an additional 90°.

Quattro 1989-1991 FRONT 147/200-Ft/lbs/NM After tightening to this value, turn an additional 90°.

REAR 147/200-Ft/lbs/NM After tightening to this value, turn an additional 90°.

Audi 200 Axle Nut Torque
1989-1991 FRONT 147/200-Ft/lbs/NM After tightening to this value, turn an additional 90°.

Quattro 1989-1991 FRONT 147/200-Ft/lbs/NM After tightening to this value, turn an additional 90°. REAR 147/200-Ft/lbs/NM After tightening to this value, turn an additional 90°.

Audi 4000 Axle Nut Torque
1980-1987 FRONT 167/226-Ft/lbs/NM

Quattro 1984-1987 FRONT 206/280-Ft/lbs/NM REAR 206/280-Ft/lbs/NM

Audi 5000 Axle Nut Torque
1980-1988 FRONT 206/280-Ft/lbs/NM

Quattro 1984-1988 FRONT 206/280-Ft/lbs/NM

Audi A3 Axle Nut Torque
2006-2013 FRONT Use special tool XZN18-T10162.12 point bolt without ribs, tighten new bolt 148 ft-lbs/200 Nm with vehicle off the ground. Lower vehicle onto its wheels and tighten an additional 180 degrees. 12 point bolt with ribs, tighten new bolt 52 ft-lbs/70 Nm with vehicle off the ground. Lower vehicle onto its wheels and tighten an additional 90 degrees. Hex bolt: Tighten bolt to 148 ft-lbs/200 Nm. Lower vehicle onto wheels and tighten an additional 180 degrees.

 

[turbocharged798]

There is typos all over the Bentley manual. If something does not make sense that its saying, DON'T do it.

 

[PakProtector]

As is stated, this holds the two halves of the inner race together. I'd not want this under-torqued. 250 ft-lbs ought to do quite well. No impacts need apply.
cheers,
Douglas