Another Camshaft Question

psaboic

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2002
Location
SW WA
TDI
02 Jetta GLS Black
Hi all,

Long time no post as the 2002 Jetta TDI has been not had too many issues outside of cosmetic stuff. Anyway lately I have been hearing some light lifter noise ( not only at start up, but when idling after a highway run. The car has 215K on it and is about 40K into the current timing belt change. That said, I'd like to see if I can hold off doing the cam and lifters until the next timing belt change. I'm going to monitor the noise and dig into it if the need arises. So, like any good mechanic, I looked around for info on how to do the job. I did the last timing belt on it and was hoping to find a good write up for how to replace the cam and lifters both during a timing belt change and without a timing belt change. Maybe I used the wrong search terms, but all I could find was a ton of stuff on replacing the camshaft in a PD (specifically 2006 models), or putting in a BEW cam. Since this is an ALH engine, and I want to stay stock, no help there.

Can someone point me to a good write up on replacing an ALH cam and lifters? I do have a Bentley manual, but the procedure in there seemed kinda generic and vague.

Many thanks!!
 

csstevej

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 12, 2004
Location
north nj
TDI
2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,gluten for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB
Actually the Bentley is pretty good on what to do , but basically it’s like doing a timing belt just not removing the belt.
pin everything , remove the belt , turn the crank backwards 1/4 turn ( takes load off valves ) and remove the cam caps as per the Bentley , don’t forget to loosen the cam sprocket before cam removal , remove cam and seal and the lifters.
Reinstall in reverse order , make sure you lube up everything as you go along and torque the caps as specified in the Bentley.
Don’t forget to position the cam correctly ( V shape of the lobes on cylinder nearest the TB and slot horizontal with sealing edge where valve cover sits . Put crank back to TDC on flywheel and put TB back on and check two revolutions of crank that there are no issues. Finish timing with Vcds , but that’s basically it.
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Hi all,

Long time no post as the 2002 Jetta TDI has been not had too many issues outside of cosmetic stuff. Anyway lately I have been hearing some light lifter noise ( not only at start up, but when idling after a highway run. The car has 215K on it and is about 40K into the current timing belt change. That said, I'd like to see if I can hold off doing the cam and lifters until the next timing belt change. I'm going to monitor the noise and dig into it if the need arises. So, like any good mechanic, I looked around for info on how to do the job. I did the last timing belt on it and was hoping to find a good write up for how to replace the cam and lifters both during a timing belt change and without a timing belt change. Maybe I used the wrong search terms, but all I could find was a ton of stuff on replacing the camshaft in a PD (specifically 2006 models), or putting in a BEW cam. Since this is an ALH engine, and I want to stay stock, no help there.

Can someone point me to a good write up on replacing an ALH cam and lifters? I do have a Bentley manual, but the procedure in there seemed kinda generic and vague.

Many thanks!!

I just replaced the Cam in a BRM PD engine ............... This is the first Cam I have ever replaced in a TDI engine. The ALH will be much easier in my opinion. I watched several YouTube videos and thumbed through the Bentley Manual. The procedure included a TB change too.

But, I seriously doubt the Cam is damaged in your engine at 215k miles! My old 2000 Jetta (son owns it now) had close to 390k miles and the Cam was just fine last summer when I changed the TB. Also, the 2002 ALH engine in my 84 Vanagon has about 208k miles on it ... no worn Cam.

It will be easy to remove the Valve Cover to do a visual inspection of the Cam Lobes for wear. And, to some degree, without removing the Cam, you can see the Lifters (Cam Followers). Yes, I realize if there are spider web like cracks they will likely not be visible without proper lighting and actually being removed. ....
 

Mozambiquer

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Mar 21, 2015
Location
Versailles Missouri
TDI
2004 VW Touareg V10 TDI, 2012 Audi Q7 V6 TDI, 1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI, 2005 VW Passat wagon TDI X3, 2001 VW golf TDI, 1980 VW rabbit pickup,
Hi all,

Long time no post as the 2002 Jetta TDI has been not had too many issues outside of cosmetic stuff. Anyway lately I have been hearing some light lifter noise ( not only at start up, but when idling after a highway run. The car has 215K on it and is about 40K into the current timing belt change. That said, I'd like to see if I can hold off doing the cam and lifters until the next timing belt change. I'm going to monitor the noise and dig into it if the need arises. So, like any good mechanic, I looked around for info on how to do the job. I did the last timing belt on it and was hoping to find a good write up for how to replace the cam and lifters both during a timing belt change and without a timing belt change. Maybe I used the wrong search terms, but all I could find was a ton of stuff on replacing the camshaft in a PD (specifically 2006 models), or putting in a BEW cam. Since this is an ALH engine, and I want to stay stock, no help there.

Can someone point me to a good write up on replacing an ALH cam and lifters? I do have a Bentley manual, but the procedure in there seemed kinda generic and vague.

Many thanks!!
I would seriously doubt that your cam is bad on an alh with 215k miles... I just pulled one apart with 310k miles and the cam looked very good still. The alh doesn't have the cam wear problems the PD engines have.
That being said, what's your reason for thinking the cam is bad?
 

psaboic

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2002
Location
SW WA
TDI
02 Jetta GLS Black
In the last 1500-2000 miles or so it has been noisier at idle, and now listening to it, you can hear a light rhythmic metallic tick or tapping sound over the normal diesel clatter. Almost sounds like nailing or a bad injector, but the injectors and nozzles were replaced about 15000 miles ago and performance is great. The oil level is normal and the oil has only been in there about 5000 miles. Timing on VAG-COM is still within the normal window where it was set when the timing belt was changed. Tried fuel from different stations too with no change. So.....I'm wondering if I have a weak lifter or the like. If anyone has any other ideas, I'm all ears.....
 

JETaah

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Jan 18, 2001
Location
mi 48836
TDI
96 B4V, 1999.5 jettaIV,2005 BEW Beetle
In the last 1500-2000 miles or so it has been noisier at idle, and now listening to it, you can hear a light rhythmic metallic tick or tapping sound over the normal diesel clatter. Almost sounds like nailing or a bad injector, but the injectors and nozzles were replaced about 15000 miles ago and performance is great. The oil level is normal and the oil has only been in there about 5000 miles. Timing on VAG-COM is still within the normal window where it was set when the timing belt was changed. Tried fuel from different stations too with no change. So.....I'm wondering if I have a weak lifter or the like. If anyone has any other ideas, I'm all ears.....
In my experience, you can get a fresh batch of professionally installed nozzles in the injectors and you will get that metallic 'tinking' sound...not quite "Maxwell's Silver Hammer" but close.
Perhaps you can talk to the folks at Diesel Fuel Injection Service in Portland, OR and they can tell you if it is normal.
Try isolating the sound with a length of hose from your ear to the individual injectors.
 

STDOUBT

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Location
Portland, effing Oregon
TDI
dos jettas
Our '01 lived it's life on that Castrol Edge (dealership) stuff until we bought it in 2018.
232K miles, the lobes looked like this - this one in particular was the worst (zoom in):
A fuel attendant here remarked that it was louder than my '03 (135K).
I agreed and found the cam like that and the lifters with bow-ties:
I heard an anectdote a while back on this forum that "the 2001's" has "weak" cams". Maybe there was a sub-par batch around those months. Maybe it's true, maybe Castrol was the wrong stuff 🤷 '01 was born 12/00 FWIW.
EDIT: forgot to mention, I actually didn't notice a huge reduction in overall loudness at idle, BUT,
after what's now about 9K miles, and now that I'm borrowing the '01 from the Mrs. for work the past couple weeks,
I am sure it's now no louder than the '03! So.. it took a while to 'settle' I guess.
 
Last edited:

pkhoury

That guy with the goats
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
Location
Medina, TX
TDI
2013 JSW, 2003 Jetta Ute, 2 x 2002 Golf, 2000 Golf
I just replaced my cam and lifters recently with @Franko6 's kit. It maybe took about two hours, but it really wasn't all that difficult to do. If you need to, I'd just do it now and get it over with, rather than wait another 60K.
 

Franko6

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2005
Location
Sw Missouri
TDI
Jetta, 99, Silver`
Cam Replacement Instructions

First, download from 'Resources' A4 Timing belt procedure, because you can't remove a cam without doing that.

So, you are in the position that the cam sprocket and vacuum pump are removed.

Mark the caps, 1-5, with #1 being closest to the timing belt. Note that there may be numbers marked on the 2, 3 and 4 caps, but just for clarity, we remark them with numbered stamps. We have seen too many mixed up. The moon cut goes to the back, and each cap belongs back where it came from. Permanently marking them before removal will take the guesswork away. At very least, use a magic marker.

Remove the 1, 3 and 5 caps, then incrementally loosen the 2 and 4 caps. The cam will sometimes stick in the bore. Lightly tap the tapered end and it will pop up.

Remove the cam. Wipe the oil from each lifter and check for damage like what STdoubt shows in his link. When the lifters are worn that badly, it's not just worn out lifters, but the cam is equally worn. Replace the set. Any wear that is a straight line or as we have described for years, 'bow ties' is a lifter that is dwelling. That will cause the lifter to overheat and make a distinct ticking noise.

If it is your intention to return the cam and cam followers to service, mark the cam followers before inspection, 1-8, and return them to the same bore they came out of.

Installation of the cam is reverse. Use assembly lube on the cam bearings and cam journals. We find it easier to set the crank at TDC and put both #1 lobes in the UP position. Incrementally tighten the #2 and #4 cap until the cam is seated.

Before installing the #1 and #5 cap, install a new cam seal. We prefer the PTFE version, but it takes special attention. Cover the woodruff key slot in the cam taper with electrical tape (ala Paramedick) to protect the leading edge of the seal when it is installed. Otherwise, the end of the woodruff key slot will cut the seal and it will leak. Square up the seal in the cylinder head. Pull the tape out from under the seal.

On the two end cam caps, put a thin coat of Hi Temp RTV at the sides of the cam seal area and DO NOT put any sealant in the slots in #5 cap. Tighten the nuts to 15 ft lbs.

Finish by installing the timing belt per instructions. DO NOT do a 'Paint and Pray'. Get the right tools for the right job. We sell or loan the tools and keep stock and performance cams and lifters in stock if you decide you should replace them.

Our timing belt tool kit is very convenient, with a very small counterhold tool which lacks 'the handle' you provide a piece of 1/2" black iron pipe. That makes the counterhold tool very compact and easy to store or mail.

Feel free to call or PM with any questions.
 
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