Recent content by USMCShooter

Mods delete please? Can't figure out how to delete it myself.

I'm positive the tensioner is set correctly, and the bolt is still tight. The tab is good. I ran the engine through the entire 360 degrees with a socket prior to starting. The crank sprocket is tight, I'm just wondering if it's worn to the point it's allowing slippage.

I'm getting a little frustrated with this thing. I've had the car for about 3 years. Bought it with 203,000 miles on it. It was Mechanic owned and pretty well maintained for all mechanical (engine/trans/drivetrain) items. Regularly serviced and all replacement parts replaced with replacement...

I'm getting a little frustrated with this thing. I've had the car for about 3 years. Bought it with 208,000 miles on it. Mechanic owned and pretty well maintained for all mechanical (engine/trans/drivetrain) items. Regularly serviced and all replacement parts replaced with replacement parts from...

I was able to diagnose and correct the issue with no problems...although that actuator can be a real pain to change on the car! HA! Since the DLC764's went in the car a couple of months ago, I've really been enjoying my 90 mile a day commute....until about 3 weeks ago. I'd changed all the...

So after the DLC764 install, I've been playing with the timing. I read several well-constructed posts, some on the merits of timing towards the top of the line, and others nearer the middle of the graph...or as high as possible where demanded SOI meets Actual. KermaTDI recommended with the...

No, I'm not tuned yet....I've got to clutch and turbo it before I tune it...so it's bone stock except for the 764's at this point.

I'm running newly installed 764's, other than that it's stock...timing was midway between the middle and top bands. I hammer modded the pump to get an IQ of 5.5.... With the stock nozzles, IQ of 3.2 and timing where it was above, I averaged 48.4 mpg for 5 tanks. After changing the...

I actually expected far more smoke until I got the tune done....the mechanical timing was a bit below the center line...I bumped it to just above, but where demanded and actual could still match....it hazed a bit of black until I did that and the IQ adjustment...now I don't see it, even standing...

Took all of 1.5 hours to pull old injectors, clean pockets, install new Injectors and burp the rack and have her purring again....another 1.5 with getting mechanical timing correct, hammer mod to get IQ to 5.3 and just....plain....wow! Anyone who's been hesitant as to how much this will...

Maybe pull some of the more popular modules like CCM, SRS etc....just for the sake of having them when, not if they fail....lol! It's a shame I finally found all the manual door lock rods and stuff before I read this post!!!! Dangit....kinda like one of the other guys....throw stuff away three...

I'm wondering if maybe the camshaft timing slipped somehow within the sprocket itself....I'd be curious to put the camshaft block in and see what the marks look like...this sounds like cam timing severely retarded to me....slow to accelerate and low power from off idle, with everything you've...

The codes are still there...so now I have to pull the carpet up to where I can expose and inspect all of the wires individually to see if I have some corrosion or broken wires creating the low voltage issues.

I had this issue the other day. Ensure the retention screw that holds it in the door is out far enough....Whatever you do, avoid taking it all the way out, but it has to be out far enough to seat the lock in the latch...

AH! I see where you were pointing me now! I've definitely got to pull the seat out and get the carpet out where I can see the wires and get them completely unwrapped to see these crappy connections...this would explain my low voltage indications as well as the CAN BUSS Emergency fault....I hate...