Thanks for the input, folks!
I'd had it in my mind to remove the ball joint control arm bolts. I'd struggled to understand how this could help, but since I'd seen so many people doing this I thought it was kind of the simplest thing to do. Went ahead and did this: reason for the decision was...
Not a new rodeo for me but I'm just dead in the water on getting the right/passenger (US) side new strut installed. Spring compressors have the bulky heads on them which reduces the starting spread (making them wider to start with ends up jamming them against the inside of the towers...
3 thousand revolutions? :unsure:
engine becomes stupid? :unsure:
First start from a cold engine? (what is the outside/air temperature?)
Best guess on such limited/unclear information is a fuel-to-air mixture issue (usually too much fuel - when cold it tends to produce white-ish smoke; when...
Seems that the clamp isn't seated down flush. But... I'm confused as to what part this is supposed to be. Looks to me to be #10, which appears to show up BEHIND the core's tubes or in front of but behind the flaring of the tubes?
I don't recall having ever removed a part like you're showing...
Two things required in order to actually have a good battery:
1) It can be charged up to top/spec voltage (some battery charges have a "restore" function that can "force" the battery to bump up to a "full charge" if a standard charge isn't getting it there; my battery charger has four green led...
One can check for worn mounts by how much the engine moves when letting out the clutch (and with a bit of throttle): brakes on (e-brake as well), put in gear and watch engine movement when starting to release clutch- kind of requires two people (one to "drive" and one to "watch"). Bad dogbone...
"Might" be a restricted intake. Had this as my issue with my ALH. Less common with BEWs, from what I know, but still possible.
ECU programming does not take into consideration this possibility. Response seems to kind of be like a "limp mode" in that expected throttle response will be seen as...
I think that if it were air in the fuel that it would be hard to start. And VW, for some reason I have yet to run across, didn't bless automatics with clear sections of fuel line; cannot see air as one can with clear lines (manual transmission cars).
If it was really cold there then fuel...
Original lasted 19 years. If that's not long enough then MAYBE go with something up-scale. I'd say it's more about quality control than materials, so OEM (be it plastic or whatever) should be fine.
Nylon or brass bore brushes work well to clean the injector holes.
Be sure to put a dab of high temp grease on the injector hold-down rocker pivots. Use new washers. Warm up and re-torque.
FWIW: My favorite setup is .205 (Bosio DLC 520) nozzles and a Malone Stage 2 tune (any tune over say...
Couple years ago I installed these shocks/struts (Actives) on my wife's 2003 Golf and they're totally awesome. Smooth ride but they're also pretty aggressive when pushed hard. I don't drive her car as often as I'd like but when I do I am impressed. I have Koni Oranges on my car and they're...
Everything is a compromise.
ALWAYS get an engine running perfectly well before undertaking any mods. I'd further suggest that one is best off taking care of suspension and brakes before doing any performance mods: power pushing a poor handling vehicle is a bad idea.
I've run several cars with...
I've done only ONE axle, in which case I am in no way an expert: replaced joints and boots. But...
The boots ARE a pain to install as you have to stretch the holy heck out of them. I seem to recall pounding them on using a socket and one of the retaining washers from the new CV joint kit...
FYI - This is a recall from BMW over/about the CP4 pumps. It sets the precedent. I suspect that this is going to start rippling through the industry (expect VW to be challenged).
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2021/RCMN-21V586-1695.pdf
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