Recently replaced front calipers, hoses, pads and rotors. Did normal pressurized bleed at ~12 psi pushing air, seemed to go well, except - you guessed it: mushy pedal. No hard grab. Did a couple bed-in runs ~40 MPH, slam pedal down to 20 MPH. I think I still have air in the system.
Well, here's a good thread about this, and I'll probably go this way when I get around to having to repair them:
P.S. I have it from a really excellent thread on here about re-upholstering...
Sounds like you don't have a real good history on the car's maintenance?
How old is the timing belt?
Your symptoms could easily be a slipped timing belt. If it was me 1st thing I would do is verify timing as I inspected the timing belt for lost teeth. 19mm socket on the crank, turn clockwise...
Don't mean to be a dick, but you should really look into wearing gloves for your work. Consistently exposing your skin to petrochemicals is a good way to get yourself some cancer, bro. They make gloves for a reason, and it's not to keep your hands looking dainty.
Hahaha. Not so bad in the A4 I think. My interior door handles look kinda cool all scraped up. Like an old spaceship!
At least the plastic underneath is nice and shiny. Protected, like. Under the protective soft-touch coating lol
Soon enough it will look new again!
But really, chalk it up to...
The big nut that's on the driver's side? which clamps the hard fuel return tube between two copper crush washers?
Bentley says "Tighten to 25 Nm (18 ft-Ib)". Probably want to replace those washers too.
I just noticed in this pic the washers are both on one side....bzzzt. Wrong lol
No, soaking won't usually clean it overnight.
I soaked mine in LA's Awesome for a few weeks. Then still had to scrape and brush out the gunk left over. Think old butter knives, and sturdy bottle brushes, pressure washer. There's also the blow-torch method. Either way you're going to make a mess...
Just in case you've never seen the ross-tech wiki (like some here), I'll put these here:
These are great...
Nice. Well, I have heard that removing and attempting to re-seat the engine air filter doesn't really work. I have heard it's kind of a one-time seal. Hopefully someone else chimes in on that idea.
IMO, it's worth the cost of a new filter to protect the MAF and turbo itself.
The Variable vane actuator, when out of adjustment can make the car over- or under-boost - generally throws a CEL for that.
Long term use of the mis-adjusted turbo can cause damage.
Symptoms are Limp Mode.